The road to Pedasi and a taste of reality

After hearing about the excitement and the growth down the Azuero Peninsula I wanted to see it with my own eyes, not those of the people selling or trying to sell sand castles. Mayra and I visited two years ago when I was writing for Live and Invest in Panama, this was a return to relax and see all the changes.

The new four lane highway from Divisa to Las Tablas is moving along and the ride down the peninsula is much faster than before. One massive credit to the current government is that the investment in infrastructure will at least in theory propel growth, it is certainly enticing private investment.

We passed through Chitre, Los Santos to Las Tablas on new and improved highways. There are an extraordinary number of new businesses and developments in the Chitre region. I always liked Chitre as a very traditional Panamanian town, like much of Panama it has a new flavor; the flavor of investment and growth.

Mayra and I arrived in Pedasi near sundown, about five and one half hours from David. We did run into one half hearted Indigenous road obstruction on the road between Tole and Santiago. There were fewer then ten people there and more than that number of riot police waiting down the road. We and all the traffic passed through unmolested.

We stayed with some good friends who have a small secluded  B&B about 30 minutes west of Pedasi near Playa Venao. I do recommend staying there it if you wish to make the trip and want to be close to both the surf camps and the pueblo. Goeff and Caroline are former Boquete residents now living the beach life. This is a link to their website, LINK.

This the view from their back porch, it is not a golf course but could be a putting green.

Playa Lifestyle Pedasi Panama

Playa Lifestyle Pedasi Panama

On Saturday we spent the day following up on our prior trip two years ago. On that trip we met with some of the developers of beach front property who arrived from Israel to turn the sea coast into lot line to lot line developments. The number of houses in each development has doubled in two years. Then you could count them on one hand, now after two years you need two hands.

Beach front development in Pedasi Panama

Beach front development in Pedasi Panama

It seems every pasture near Pedasi is either for sale or has been sold to a developer. All that is missing are the buyers of the lots they created. Pedasi has a new hospital under construction and an airport completed in December 2011 that  has just opened. We visited the airport and took a walk onto the runway because only us, some cows and a wind sock were there. There are currently no flights scheduled into Pedasi. My political corruption curiosity wondered who might have been the prior owner of the pasture which is now an airport with no staff, fuel facility or parking.

Pedasi Panama Airport terminal shot form the runway

Pedasi Panama Airport terminal shot from the runway

Like so many stories in Panama I think the pitch on Pedasi is a speculation on the future. The beaches near Pedasi are fantastic, some literally deserted, tourists do come, surfers love Playa Venano and fisherman love the waters off the coast.  I asked  who is buying in Pedasi and heard interesting things, the most sales in the area are coming as Panama’s middle class is investing in vacation houses in the beach area, houses selling for a bit over $100,000. It is really refreshing to see that the economy of Panama is allowing Panamanians to make the same mistakes that were made in North America a decade ago. I was told that the beach properties are selling slowly and are often back on the market rapidly as people discover there is nothing to do in Pedasi beyond surfing and fishing. The beaches have not flooded since the projects started but local memories go back further than the developments.

There is a demand for rentals, as in Boquete, that might make for some good long term investment. Despite frequent failures of urbanizations there is little doubt in my mind that this area will eventually develop into the French Rivera of Panama. The only question is will either I or my children live to see it; perhaps my grandchildren.

Beach near Pedasi Panama

Beach near Pedasi Panama

The local restaurants on the beaches like Playa Arena are still affordable and great fun. You can buy lunch for four with a few rounds of beer for under $35, I did.
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Pedasi is a beautiful, remote place to visit and spend a few days on the beaches. Enjoy it while you can because like all things in Panama the times they are a changing and the things that made Panama attractive to many are evolving into the things some of us fled.


Pilgrimage to Pese

For some a pilgrimage is a religious act, something to bring them closer to their god. For my friend Bob and I an appropriate pilgrimage was a trip to the source of Abuelo Rum, Panama’s nectar of the gods. Abuelo is distilled in the small pueblo of Pese 18 kilometers from Chitre Panama. For 102 years the Varela family has made Pese their home and their hospitality produces an excellent rum and the national drink of Panama, Seco.

Varela distilleries has 90% of the market in Panama with their products and we wanted to see, smell and taste why their rum is so good and their Seco so popular.
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The Hacienda San Isidro is just out of Pese and has one thousand hectares of sugar cane, the flesh of good rum.

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The soul of good rum comes from the pressing of the cane, the fermenting, the distilling over oak fires and the process of aging. Hacenda San Isidro has fifteen huge bodegas aging tomorrows elixir. The rums of Varela are age in once used barrels from the Jack Daniels Distillery. To master this technique that makes todays Ron Abuelo the founder of the distillery imported a master rum maker from Cuba, the barrels from the US but insisted on growing his own cane. The family still grows most of its own cane. Each year they hire three hundred local men to hand cut the cane with machetes so that the cane will grow again the next year. The cane is then mashed and distilled, then casked for aging.
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We wandered through one of the cavernous bodegas, the aroma inspiring even those in our party who do not drink.
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Our tour guide Andrea, is a university student in Las Tablas. She told us she does tours Tuesday through Friday from 1 pm to 4 pm and on Saturday starting at 10 am. The tour was short, fun and ended in the bar where we had a chance to sample the final result of cutting, mashing, fermenting, distilling and aging. The sacrament of this pilgrimage was rum Abuelo and it was as always excellent.

As the rum was aging the Seco, Panama’s national drink was being processed. It has a fast path to market, sugar cane is cut, mashed, fermented distilled, moved into tanker trucks and bottled.Think of Seco as rum without age, a simple sugar ethanol. Seco goes from the field to the market in five days. Because Seco has no flavor, it like Vodka mixed with anything and if you ask most local indigenous they will recommend Seco con Vaca, Seco with milk, I prefer rum.
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Both rum and seco are bottled in this facility in the town of Pese and also in Panama City. The Varela brothers export the sabor (flavor) of Panama world wide. Visit yourselves next time you are near Chitre, just follow the smell of curing, maturing rum Abuelo.


Road Trips from Boquete: Lunch in Pedasi

Last stop on the road before beginning the ride back to Boquete was Delceria Yely in Pedasi. The Dulceria was a treat a nice light lunch and wonderful looking pastry.yely.jpg

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The selection was simple sandwiches or pork or chicken and lovely sweets.

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Lunch was perfect and enoyed by all. Total bill for four sandwiches, coffee and one pastry was $6.00.

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Road Trips from Boquete: Isla Iguana

Well actually on the road back from Playita toward Boquete we passed through Pedasi and took a ponga out to Isla Iguana. Isla Iguana is about 15 minutes by boat from the port in Pedasi.Isla Iguana PanamaComing off the high of whale watching we arrived at the white sandy beach of Isla Iguana; paid $6 for the four of us to ANAM and started exploring.iguana2.jpgThe island is named after some of it’s inhabitants.iguana4.jpgThere is a path that crosses the island and on the other side there is another lovely beach.iguana11.jpgand more iguanas and many many many crabs.iguana3.jpg


There be Whales!

When we were fishing at La Playita we learned that there had been recent whale sightings near Isla Iguana off the coast near Pedasi. After driving back to Pedasi we charted a ponga and went out on for a ride. After about ten minutes the captain pointed out toward a pair of fishing boats and gunned the engine.

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Jennifer was fast with the camera and caught a group of four humpbacks.

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They were amazing and it was a highpoint in an already wonderful trip.


La Playita Resort, south of Pedasi on the Azuero Panama

The “little beach” is a wonderful beach indeed. Our friends Bob and Trini invited us to join them for a few days of rest and wonderment in Los Santos on the Azuero Peninsula. Azuero has become one of our favorite destinations, it combines beach and very traditional Panama in areas remote enough to lack even cell phone communications. A perfect tropical holiday just a few hours driving from Boquete.We spent two nights at the Playita Resort and Jennifer took over 700 photos and never once photographed the beach itself. This is a nature photographer’s paradise.If you are looking for the Marriot do not go to Playita, if however you are looking for a labor of love, an ecoresort that has been a fourteen year personal project this is the place to visit.playita26.jpgThe owner, Lester has built much of the resort with his own hands; the beauty craftsmanship and unique nature of the the resort show his passion for the project. Lester is a retired professional jockey from Michigan and his creation is a unique opportunity for relaxation.playita2.jpgUpon arrival you can grab a cold beer and start looking at the blend of man and nature Lester has created.playita3.jpgIf you begin to feel like you are being watched, you probably are, not by any non existent security guards but by the local residents who live in the trees above.playita14.jpgThe howlers are leaf eaters and seem to have accomidated to the people below. [Read more...]


We have returned and Jennifer took almost 700 photos

It was a wonderful few days down the Azuero Peninsula. Here is a single photo for now, more and some wonderful tales tonight after we unpack and catch up. iguana1.jpg


Road Trips from Boquete – Some Azuero Peninsula Photos

All of these were shot on the Azuero Peninsula last week. They show some real contrast between this region and the rest of the country that we have visited.
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Sunday morning in one of the many small parks in the city of Chitre. The parks are very european and well used.
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A view through a small park to the Chitre Catholic Church. A little moorish effect on the central bandstand.
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A colorful building across from the church, this one is for sale if you want a bit of Chitre.
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Built in 1913 this Chitre building reminds me of the French Quarter in New Orleans.
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A view from across a square of the Church in Pedasi a small beautiful town further south .
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A peak at a beach. The Azuero is a peninsula jutting into the Pacific and has many miles of virgin beaches. This area has not yet been destroyed and is still in it’s natural splendor. There are few services, little infrastructure and few people south and west of Pedasi.


Road Trips from Boquete: Azuero Peninsula

After depositing our children at Tucomen Airport we started the drive back to Boquete. A few hours down the road we decided to go exploring again, following our last trip to Chitre and going further south down the Azuero Peninsula.

We spent the night at our first night at the Hong Kong Hotel in Chitre, not bad but not first on our list for the future. Had breakfast at their restaurant which again although not bad was nothing to rave or to rant about.

Then we started driving south along the coastal highway. we went through Los Santos and decided on a random beach detour.
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A beach to the left, a beach to the right; so many choices and the time to explore both of them.
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Large expansive Pacific Ocean beached with very very large tidal effects. Few people, no resorts a nice place to spend a day if you are beach people and can outrun an incoming tide; not for us. We are desert dwellers lost in a sea of green.

Returning to the Highway we noticed a mini super with baskets and Jennifer decided to take a look.
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A basket backpack, what appears to be a woven saddle or saddle pad?

A little further south we discover this little tienda and succumb to the charms of the vendor who awarded Jennifer a gourd cup and she acquired a large backpack basket for $12.
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We have not seen utilitarian baskets for sale any other place else in Panama.

As we drove further south we hit Las Tablas another lovely roadside attraction.

More soon…
Next stop


Road Trips from Boquete – We are back in Boquete

Reluctantly we needed to take our offspring back to Panama City. They are now safely home and we after a winding trip down the Azeuro Peninsula are also back. After a brief catchup, cleanup and pause I will share a little about our trip to both Panama City and tour of the Azeuro.