A course correction and the Rio Encantado

When I started writing this blog more than four years ago, I was writing for my children, they never read it. Then I started writing for myself, my life, my experiences in the this great adventure called life. Over time more and more people started reading this blog. People in Boquete already know about what is here, but appreciate some news and occasionally a different perspective. Recently I can see a lot of new people visiting this resource, people who are considering a relocation to Panama and more potential tourists looking for information.

I stopped writing about restaurants, I stopped writing about resorts, I stopped travel logs of travels around Panama. In doing that I omitted what many readers want, some ideas for visiting, places to stay, places to eat. The silent majority of readers, according to Google are not in Panama but are in North America. Starting with this post on Rio Encantado in Caldera I am going to start sharing information about hotels, resorts, restaurants and regional travels again.

I live in Boquete which means I don’t usually spend a night in a resort in the area. Still I stumbled across an ad for Rio Encantado and decided to contact Frank, the owner, and ask if I could visit and write about his rather low key nature preserve with a few cabins. I wrote that sentence with careful consideration, because Frank has one hundred hectares straddling the Caldera River with only four cabins and one guest house. Although the cabins are well appointed and complete, the real feature is the wilderness.rioencanto1.jpg

Rio Encantado is not for the visitor who wants to be in the middle of an urban or even suburban setting, it is comfortable wilderness. This is the place for a quit retreat, a swim in the river, a walk in the tropical forest. The setting was being cleared for pasture when Frank purchased it, he reversed the process, reforesting, reinvigorating the native environment. Rio Encantado is a real nature preserve in the diminishing wilderness of Chiriqui.

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Do not consider Rio Encantado for a day, consider a week, the rates are a reasonable $60 a day. You will have your own kitchen, your privacy and the ability to commune with nature. If you wish Frank does have staff that can prepare elegant meals. If you prefer, you can do it all yourself.
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I did not spend a night at the resort, I did walk along the river and experience the beauty. It is very different from Jaramillo, and only thirty minutes away. Rio Encantado has a great party facility near the river and I might in the future consider renting it for an event, the location is that unique. It is that much of a trip back in time to a place only touched by man, not totally terraformed. Beautiful, comfortable but immersed in nature not concrete.

If you are interested in learning how to scuba dive, Rio Encantado offers lessons in the pool. A better place to start than the river :)
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For more information on the facility and availability check trip advisor


A four year coincidence, Boquete Garden Inn

I arrived in Boquete Panama in July 2006. The first night I spent in Boquete was in the Boquete Garden Inn, a beautiful facility along the river. Tuesday I had the opportunity to visit the hotel again. A friend was staying there and we met with intention of going to another location for breakfast. I had no plans to write about our breakfast so I did not take a camera.
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My first stay at the Boquete Garden Inn in 2006 lasted one night, the physical plant was beautiful even four years ago but the atmosphere was cold and dispassionate. In 2006 I moved to Villa Marita. In 2010 things changed and we stayed for breakfast. The warmth, the atmosphere and the new owners made the difference.
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Suzie and Jay, the current owners are warm friendly people and their energy makes the Boquete Garden Inn a place to consider if you are visiting Boquete. All the photos in this post are from Jay, if you do visit, don’t be surprised to see him out with his camera, snapping at the birds.

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The Physical plant is a tropical garden along the river, the rooms in multistory units following a path toward the river. They have a daily happy hour for their guests and include a continental breakfast. After seeing the breakfasts like Huevos Rancheros, Panamanian, I think they might have some of best breakfasts in Boquete.


Sunday Morning, fantastico

Part of the charm of living in Boquete Panama is the tranquility of our lifestyle and the abundance of opportunity for enjoying our quality of life. Today I seized the moment and took advantage of a great opportunity. Boquete Safari Tours has a of season deal on horse back riding, $25 for a couple of hours riding through Caldera.Rancho_Caldera_Panama002.jpg

After our ride we took the opportunity to visit Rancho Caldera and enjoy a fantastic brunch. A year ago the Panamonte was the only place in Boquete to have a Sunday Brunch. That has changed, there are now several places serving Sunday brunch. Rancho Caldera is special for several reasons.

The synchrony with riding helps set it apart as does the quality of the food and drink. Gina has made Rancho Caldera a spiritual haven. The food and the atmosphere are fresh and clean. Her new chef, Craig, has brought a higher than normal standard to local cuisine. I think the mantra could be stated as quality food, quality drink, quality service and great preparation makes Rancho Caldera worth the ride from Boquete.

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Start with the unique smoked Salmon Eggs Benedict below, my breakfast was fantastic.
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The eggs are from local chickens, dill literally clipped by the chef in front of me.

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Other menu options were equally wonderful as were some temptingly toxic deserts. Consider a chocolate cake made with chocolate from Bocas del Toro.Rancho_Caldera_Panama000.jpg

After Brunch you can round out your Sunday with a cooling dip in the Rancho Caldera Swimming Pool. Look at the surreal view. I really urge you to try the whole enchilada, ride the horses, eat the brunch and get wet in the pool. Make your Sunday “muy especial”!Rancho_Caldera_Panama009.jpg


The Restaurant in the Ladera Hotel Boquete Panama

To my knowledge the Ladera Hotel on the Jaramillo side of the Panamonte bridge in Boquete Panama has not had it’s official opening yet; if it has I missed it. Still I have had the opportunity to eat there twice, one for breakfast and again for a lunch. I am impressed by the quality of the food and value.

For breakfast I enjoyed my traditional local favorite Liver with onions and peppers, it was the best in Boquete. The Fruit salad was also excellent. The environment is clean, fresh and simple with the traditional television playing in the background and a very attentive wait staff.

When I returned for lunch weeks later I enjoyed a bowl of Sopa de Mariscos, seafood soup. It was filled with tender seafood and a healthy handful of shrimp that were fresh and crunchy not over cooked.

In time I will return to the Ladera for a dinner, if you have already please comment.

To view the menus click on them twice and they will be large enough to read.


Hotel Ladera Boquete Panama

When we arrived in Boquete Panama almost two years ago we drove by a Hotel under construction. Hotel Ladera is now, finally open. I suspect the three brothers who own the hotel are very pleased.

The facility is located across the Panamonte Bridge on the Jaramillo side of the river. They have 20 rooms and one apartment with clearly marked prices.

I had the opportunity to meet Carolina, the manager and receive a tour of the facility. They have rooms with two twins, a twin and a single and king sized beds. Rates start at a rack rate of $132.00, a grand opening rate of $88.00 which is also the corporate rate and posted jubilado / resident rates of from $88 to $66 depending upon the day of the week. These rates place the Hotel Ladera in the high end of the Boquete market with Valle del Rio, the Panamonte and Valle Escondido.

Hotel Ladera has bilingual staff available. They also have a small very nice restaurant and bar with reasonable prices. I have not yet eaten there but since the have liver on the menu for breakfast I know I will give them a try soon. The restaurant is open from 7 am to 11 pm a perfect cocktail hour.

The photos below will provide an idea of rooms, layout and their menu. click on the menus twice to see them large enough to read.


Hotel Valle Del Rio / Caffe Pomodoro / Wine Bar Boquete Panama yum

Last night I found myself in a Boquete Panama dreamscape. I was sitting on a beautiful terrace overlooking a bubbling river, saw many good friends and had a wonderful meal catered by Caffe Pomodoro a favorite Panama City restaurant.

Then I heard familiar voice call for a cold Balboa and there at my table were Penny Ripple, Robert and Maria Boyd, neighbors Al, Ceila, Sharon and Michael just a table away and other new friends Terry and Jill and their son Shane on the other side. The river was still there, the food was still there and reality set in. Caffe Pomodoro has opened in the new Hotel Valle Del Rio.

As you drive toward Valle Escondido you will find the Hotel Valle Del Rio on your right side before the entrance to Valle Escondido. Once inside you will discover, the hotel, Caffe Pomodoro, the Wine Bar and the New home of the New Look Salon, formerly of Los Establos.

The Wine Bar and Caffe Pomodoro are an indoor outdoor affair as in El Congrejo Panama City. There are two distinct overlapping menus, regardless of where you sit you can ask to see both. As in Panama the Wine Bar menu is focused on accompaniments to fine wines and the wine list as a long as any other in Boquete. We had a bottle or two of Trio a Chilean favorite at $14 a bottle. The Caffe Pomodoro menu is italian.

Around our table we had, brucceta, Pasta Vongole, Pasta Primavera, Fettuccine Carbonara and Corvina. The first impression of the food was that in all cases it was very good, same recipes that pack people into the El Congrejo restaurant. The service was a bit confused and very slow. In the States I would say it only their third night after opening and it will get better but this is Panama so plan on two hours suffering in the beauty of the surroundings.

Since Jennifer was not here Maria took on the obligation of having the obligatory Flan and proclaimed it good enough for Jennifer.

After dinner Patricia the Hotel Manager took us on a tour of the hotel. The Hotel Valle Del Rio is now the newest, largest and most polished hotel in Boquete and is walking distance from Downtown.

Each of the twenty five rooms and one two bedroom suite has a beautiful enticing beds, Bose Ipod ready radios, refrigerators, coffee makers and glass walled showers. Each also has a balcony overlooking the river.

In all a wonderful experience and I hope return and find the food as good, the service improved and the ambiance unchanged. If you eat at the restaurant be aware like their namesake in the City they add a 10% propina on to your bill so don’t double tip.


Finca Lerida, A best kept Secret made public

I am entering my 20th month living in Boquete Panama. In all that time running about, eating here and there, touring this and that I never heard about Finca Lerida on the slopes of Volcan Baru. Now that I am in the know I am sharing the wisdom.

Finca Lerida is not in the center of Boquete and therefore not well known even in town, It is however worth discovering. John Collins is the resident director of the large ecological sanctuary overlooking the town. They have hundreds of hectares of forest and coffee, home to many of the birds and plants people come to Panama to see.

On site is a Bed & Breakfast, an eleven room ecolodge and a very good restaurant. You can also buy bags of the same types of coffee you will enjoy as you sit and watch the clouds roll overhead or below.

Although I have not done the coffee tour I have been told John provides and excellent bean to the cup tour and since they do entire process of planting, maintaining, harvesting, cleaning, drying, roasting and drinking coffee on the Finca all steps are there to be seen.

Finca Lerida has a website and I recommend it for more details. If you are coming to Boquete and want be out of the bustle of downtown you might want to consider staying a Finca Lerida and by your very presence contributing to the goals of conserving this beautiful area.

If you in Boquete and have no idea how to get to the Finca there is a map “borrowed” from the Finca Lerida Website with these few photos.


Boquete and Panama Hotel Reviews; Please help.

One of the frequent requests we receive in email is recommendations about Hotel in Panama and in particular in Boquete. When we stay in a hotel we usually do write it up but we rarely stay in a Boquete hotel, we live here. The only hotels we have first hand experience with are Villa Marita and Isla Verde, both highly recommended.

We are asking for your help.

If you visit please email us a review of the hotel you stay in so we can post it so other people can learn from your experience. We will not publish your name but we do want to know you actually stayed in the facility and when. Include the basics, cost, ease of access, cleanliness, food if any, location and finally would you recommend it.


Preview of Rancho de Caldera

When Chris McCall invited us to visit Rancho de Caldera we were not sure what to expect. The drive from Boquete to Caldera is a short 20-30 minutes but we have never visited the town, the hot springs or Rancho de Caldera.

We were invited for a tour and dinner and accepted with anticipation.

We were greeted by Gina and Chris and given a tour of a memorable resort to be. The facilities at Rancho de Caldera include multiple casitas for guests, a lovely pool restaurant complex one incredible view.

The facility is a labor of love of the environment. Electricity is generated by solar panels, soon to be operational hydro power and a backup generator. Environmental sensitivity is demonstrated in the design and craftsmanship of the main facilities in the common area and the casitas.

Chris has been nurturing a nursery full of specimen plants from all around Panama so that once moved into their final positions the entire ranch will have a mature look.

The high point of the evening beside the cordial hospitality of our hosts was dinner. Since it was only the four of us and their outstanding chief I restrained from taking pictures. However since the Ranch will soon be acclaimed for it’s cuisine I need to describe our juried diner. Juried because we were asked to record our comments and feelings about each dish so that they can be evaluated for the future restaurant.

First course was a poached tomato stuffed with a shrimp salad and topped with a broiled prawn. It was flavorful, had great plate appeal and totally enjoyed.

Second came a salad of endive, plum and country cheese cubes served with a balsamic vinegar dressing. This was my first taste of endive and it think and said another green would have been my preference I must admit the combination was very nice. The entree was a lovely to behold, goat cheese wrapped in slices of zucchini surrounding slices of beef and covered in a very savory sauce.

Dinner consummated with a banana split with an combination of sweetness from the banana and ice cream, crunch from walnuts and tart kiwi fruit truly wonderful meal.

The Rancho should be open before the year is out and I plan to book a holiday dinner there when our children visit. I suspect if you try a meal at Rancho de Caldera you will go back for more also.

They have a website at this LINK


Isla Verde Boquete Panama

When you live in a town people often ask where they should stay when visiting. Other than when we were visiting, we stay at home, therefore the question is not easy to answer.

Last week we had the opportunity to entertain two wonderful people; Australians now living in Costa Rica. We sought out a place for them to stay in Baja Boquete; we selected Isla Verde based on reputation and location, they were not disappointed.

Isla Verde is located close to everything in downtown Boquete.
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Eva a warm and friendly hostess and will make sure you are greeted and settled in to your cabin.
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The grounds are lush, well maintained and beautiful.
Our friends stayed in a Round House, really a hexagon and is a complete living space with a kitchen
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and a loft with a second bed.
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Our guests enjoyed Isla Verde and we recommend it to anyone who wishes to stay in the downtown area.