A New Year a new adventure and a fresh perspective

Last night as the fireworks boomed over Bajo Boquete we were at the house of a friend who loaded his suitcase and took a walk out of the house, a traditional Panamanian way of wishing for a trip in 2013. Starting at the early hours  tomorrow we are taking a trip. Two couples from Boquete beginning a four week exploration of a small slice of Argentina and Chile.

David Panama Bus Terminal

David Panama Bus Terminal

We need to leave Boquete at a ridiculous hour in the morning to catch a ride to David,  a bus to the capital and then a van to the Tocumen airport to board a red eye to Buenos Aires. One of the challenges or advantages of living in our sky island is that it is remote to the world, unless you consider David the world.

Today, Jan 1, is an awful day to travel from anyplace back to Panama City. All the holiday revelers are heading back to work tomorrow and the buses, plans and highways will be full. We waited one day in hopes the only traffic insanity will be the trip from the bus terminal the international airport. That ride within the city will cost about the same as the trip from David to Panama City. There is a Metro bus that goes from Albrook Bus terminal to the the entrance of the airport but it does not enter. I suspect if the Ministry of tourism did actually deliver the once promised shuttle bus from Albrook to Tocumen, the taxi drivers who overcharge tourists and locals alike would blockade the airport. That is an element of certainty in Panama where laws are made and changed on the streets.

We will be flying on a Copa Airlines red eye. If Copa has not changed, it will be a great flight. Copa is Panama’s Airline and Panama City is the hub, that allows for an increasing number of nonstop flights throughout the Americas, including Argentina. Copa Airlines is also a profitable publicly  traded (CPA – NYSE) business.

Copa Airlines has gained market share in part because it is easy for passengers to fly into Panama City and change planes without having a Visa or passing through customs. Panama is a great hub for passengers as well as legal and illicit substances in transit. The illicit part vexes the United States. The Panama City hub evolved because Latin American’s need to get a Visa from the US to fly into a US airport, even if the reason for their trip is to transfer to another flight leaving the US; not so in Panama City.

Visa policy is adding to the cost of our trip. Argentina does not require visas for  US, Canadian or Australian Passport holders, but does require a reciprocity fee, currently $160. You need to pay the fee online before leaving for Argentina, here is  a link if you are planning a trip. Mayra who will use her Panama Passport needs neither Visa nor fee. A Panamanian Passport is a good passport to have unless you are heading to the US or Canada. This is a link to a list of countries that do not require a Visa if you have a passport form Panama.

Too many in the United States have a vision of Latin Americans as poor, unwashed, uneducated masses trying to assault the the southern borders. Latin America is a large market place with a growing economy, a growing educated middle class and increasing opportunity, the poverty part exists everyplace. Xenophobia prevents many in the US from seeing beyond their borders. Other countries are either poor, Socialist, Communist or worse some combination of the above, all eager to take all that Americans own; even those beaver loving Canadians are too socialist.

We will be visiting two countries I have visited before, Argentina and Chile. Argentina is going through still another in what seems to be an endless series of economic crises and Chile is booming. I have observations of my last trip in made in 2008 in this blog. This trip will allow for an interesting contrast. My understanding of Panama and  Spanish have improved so I hope to contrast my experience of four years ago. It should be fun and maybe even insightful for me.


Panama 101 – Getting to Boquete

I thought I would share this seven slide show for new tourists to Boquete. My son did this a year ago to help is girl friend make it from the airport to Boquete.


Frozen, shaken not stirred and delivered

My daughter and I made a late night bus trip to Panama City on Wednesday. I thought the 10:45 bus from David was an express, if it was, it expressed itself until Tole, then until some other more remote town, and a few more times along the route it continued to be expressive. Mayra has told me that in the past the express started in David and arrived in Panama, no stops. I actually appreciate the stop in Santiago.  I suspect the driver needs a break and I always find the visit to the rest room relieving.

The air conditioning was sooooo cold on this bus, a new one labeled Expresso, that I had condensation dripping on me most of the trip. I was lucky to have a jacket. Due to persistent road work and good springs the gentle rocking and rolling of the bus allowed Morpheus to prevail, sleep was certainly better than all alternatives.

We arrived at the Albrook bus terminal at about 5AM, not to bad and since our baggage was put on the bus first, it came off the bus last, FILO accounting. Taxi fares have gone up in Panama City, there is a new fare schedule, someplace. It usually cost me $3 to go from the terminal to he hotel in Marbella. My close encounter of the first kind with a taxi driver was a request for $10, I said ladron, thief,  and tried again. The second encounter said $7, I said $5, he passed and I flagged a cab instead of taking a lingering ladron.

This driver said $5, I considered the $10, the $7 and the $3. Knowing $3 was history and $5 seemed realistic before sunrise we took the taxi. The driver spoke ghetto Spanish, I only say that because understanding him was an effort for someone who barely speaks Español del Campo, country Spanish. He did manage to communicate his contempt for the taxi drivers trying to extort fares from “tourists”. I decided I liked him and gave him a tip despite the fact you should never tip a taxi driver in Panama City.

The hotel was very gracious, they usually are and let us have a room at about 5:30AM, that was very helpful since I was scheduled to speak about the expat experience and Boquete at 4PM and needed at least a siesta before that opportunity.

I am looking forward to getting back to Boquete.

 


A MIni Panama Canal Cruise

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I have never taken a cruise through the Panama Canal. I have however been to Isla Taboga and the ferry ride from the Amador Causeway to Taboga is a mini canal cruise.

Taboga is an island about 20 minutes from Panama City, it was settled five hundred years ago and most of it is still empty. We spent some time on Taboga and it is unlikely I will return, it was not my type of destination. However getting there and back was more than half the fun, well except when my sandal fell into to pieces on the bus. I was a sight walking from the Bus terminal to Super 99 in Albrook at 6:00 AM looking for anything to wear. I was a funnier sight wearing the same stylish sandals wrapped in green duct tape for the ferry ride. The sandals retired to the trash when I found some replacements on the island.

The Ferry leaves at 8:30AM, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursdays, returns at 4:30PM, On Monday and Fridays it leaves Amador at 8:30 and again at 3PM and returns to Amador at both 9:30am and 4:30pm. On Saturday, Sunday and Holidays there are three trips, leaving Amador at 8am, 10:30am and 4pm and returning, 9am, 3pm and 5pm. Those times are critical to the lifestyle of the island and any change will have a major impact. The ferries carry everything needed to live on the island except gasoline, electricity and seafood. A ferry trip is $6 one way, $4 for people of the third age, residents of Panama over sixty, that includes me.

Here are some photos from the trip, you can click on the small image to see it in the center of the screen or just click on slideshow. All images are better than the sandals.

Taboga

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Passing the torch

I have been off line for a few days, I left Boquete for a meeting in the Capital. Having just returned I have not fully assembled all my observations , that will be coming. One change that was clear and growing is the transition from the transition from the Diablo Rojos, the retired US school buses that have been the backbone of Panama Cities, suicidal bus system to the new Metro Buses.

Diablo Rojo Panama

Diablo Rojo Panama

The Red Devils are not going without a fight. Their is consumer resistance to change. There is a shortage of qualified drivers and the government is considering importing drivers. It seems too many Diablo Rojo drivers have too many tickets, a bad attitude and do not want to work for government wages. They have disrupted traffic in the city several times trying to demand more money that they agreed to take for their aging relics of school transport.

Metro Bus Panama

Metro Bus Panama

The wild racing for the fares, will be replaced by a schedule of routes and order brought to chaos. The transition should be done in a year. All the diablos moved off the streets of the capital, Perhaps Boquete will be the last refuge of those not retired in the Capital.


Road tripping into and out of the Capital

We started the year relaxing at the beach in Pedasi. Then, after a few days of rest and being eaten alive by negative transfusing insect life, we headed to the Capital. It was time to drop Sebastian and Carol at the airport and in a surprising stroke of unplanned timing, pickup my Sister and her friend.

The trip in was uneventful, but for those who are unfamiliar with the experience I videoed driving over the Bridge of the Americas. I expected more traffic since the other bridge has a major problem and is closed to two way traffic as they reconstruct the collapsed highway at the entrance.

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcGWqHcMeIE

The city was it’s normal self, except for the limited amount of drinking water. Water is a crisis in Panama City right now. Apparently mother nature has played havoc with the water supply and until the turbidity of the sources is lower, the water is not drinkable. For now in Panama City water trucks and bottles are very much the norm. The capital is not a great place to be without potable water. Too much rain, and now it is true,  water, water, everywhere and not a bit to drink.

We avoided the crisis by leaving as fast as we could. We did leave using the Centenario Bridge so I could see the collapsed entry way. The film below shows the new one way traffic pattern and not too much more about the mess. It is bad and they are working on the repair.

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VB5GYRzoaVY

I was nice to get out of town. This week I am getting exposed to the birds, my sister and her friend are bird watchers, professional birdwatchers, more on that when I know more.


Beaching it

We took a few days at beaches on the Azuero Peninsula. It was a chance to spend some final time with my son who is off to first Texas and then Japan, two very foreign lands.

We stayed with friends and I want to share the view.

The funny part is aside from the company Mayra and I missed Jaramillo and Boquete within a day. The beach was too hot, had too many flies and despite my deep seated belief the sound of surf is tranquilizing, too noisy.

The Azureo is a great place to get away form it all, but like Boquete, it is getting a new four lane highway, in their case from Divisa to Las Tablas, and they are really moving fast. It will be changing from Las Tablas south soon.

For now we did not even have a cellular signal, nice for an escape.

Panama City is it’s normal traffic catastrophe, at least the new buses spew fewer fumes than the old Diablo Rojos. I will post a few more videos as soon as I have time.


Golden Frog

This month is a nice month for me, three of my four children, all adults, are visiting. If my normal patterns seem disrupted, you know why.

My two sons came first, followed by my daughter. I did not go to pick them up in Panama City; I did not want to make the trip. I hired Jose Saez, http://www.goldenfrog.net to pick them up at the airport and transfer them to the Albrook Bus terminal.

Jose’s people made sure they got on the bus. For the last one, my daughter, I learned Jose will also call with bus number and departure time; he did. I recommend his services to anyone who needs transportation services in the Capital.


Road Trip from Boquete, Freezing temperatures ahead.

I started my road trip Thursday at midnight, the witching hour with the Midnight express bus from David Panama to Panama City. I considered doing something sane like waiting for the morning but I like the express, get on the bus and sleep. As my daughter says, it is time travel, you enter in David and wake up in Panama City. This time I was glad I had taken a winter coat on the bus because it was so cold I needed my Montreal wardrobe. Still I did sleep and the bus arrived at the terminal in Panama City at 5:30 AM, a bit early.

Before the bus left David there was a bit of a flurry in the Terminales de David waiting room and twenty people showed up looking to get onto an already full bus. The employees told them that of they could find ten more people they would add a second bus. I boarded before seeing the outcome but the lesson is clear by your ticket early in the day.

My first surprise of the day was the $3 cab ride to the Milan Hotel when I fully expected to be told we will hold your bags come back at 3 pm for a room. Not so I was given a room and had an excellent siesta until almost noon. Life is good.

Tomorrow morning at 5:30 AM it is off to Tocumen time and another adventure in the skies. I wonder if Mexicana Airlines serves Tequila with breakfast?


Hotel Milan – Panama City

Recently I have been doing many trips from Boquete to Panama City. I have intentionally tried to stay at many hotels so I can compare them. I have enjoyed the Decapolis, loathed the Marbella and pondered the rates at the Executiive. I tried a hostel in Casco Viejo and Sevilla Suites in El Cangrejo.

I have come full circle back to the first hotel I ever stayed at in Panama, the Milan. Well located on a quiet street in the center of the El Cangrejo tourist district, the Milan is still an excellent, affordable place to stay.

The rates are up from the $25 of 2006 but the value is still there. With rates starting at $60 and no argument on the jubliado discount a night at the Milan and cost $30 plus tax.
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For your money you get a spacious clean room, good security a decent on site restaurant and a gracious helpful staff. If you drive into the city you also have secure off street parking in the building. They have added Wifi to the building and are adding a second tower.

In summary I am glad I rediscovered my roots of three years past. The Milan is once again my hotel of choice when I visit Panama City.

You can contact the Milan at hotelmilan @ cwpanama.net (remove the spaces)