A great vacation requires great food

There is a current thread running on Boquetening.com with a resident claiming the food in Chiriqui is not equal to Washington State. I am sure there are places in Washington State that have both excellent and awful food.  We have the same here, but because there are fewer people in Chiriqui Panama than in Seattle Washington, we have fewer of both.

Napoleon is credited with saying that “an army marches on it’s stomach”.  Not everyone will agree but to me a great vacation requires great food.  Great food can be mean different things to different people. I like to try new things. I like innovative cuisine, I like things I cannot or will not cook at home.

Our trip to Isla Palenque had included a surprise, great food, the best I have eaten in Chiriqui, the best I have eaten in Panama.

In April 2011 I wrote a restaurant review of The Rock in Boquete, in that review I said,  ”About two weeks ago Mayra and I ate at the La Casa de Lourdes, an acclaimed restaurant in El Valle.  The meal in El Valle was not even close in quality or taste; this was excellent food”. The chef at the Rock was a Panamanian named Oliver Blond, Oliver is now the chef at Isla Palenque.

Chef Oliver Blond

Chef Oliver Blond

On Isla Palenque the chef has a captive small and demanding market. He can be innovative or lazy. Oliver selected innovative and excellent. His food qualified as the best I have eaten in Panama. He has taken local ingredients and produced unique variations including some with very traditional names and non traditional execution.

The Island has it’s own organic gardens and produces much of what is served. It also has the Pacific Ocean on it’s doorstep providing fresh fish, lobster, shrimp and more.

So here is the naked truth, to us foodies, the following photos might be pornographic. These photos are a hollow expression of how good the food actually looked, smelled and tasted.

Like all people who never grew up,  I like to start with dessert. Here is a crepe stuffed with strawberries and covered with island produced coconut ice cream.

Strawberry crepe with coconut ice cream

Strawberry crepe with coconut ice cream

When Mayra saw traditional dishes on the menu she wanted to see how different they could be. She tried the Arroz con Pollo and said, “the is the best I have ever eaten”. It had both flavor and lots of chicken.

Arroz con pollo, Rice and Chicken

Arroz con pollo, Rice and Chicken

I needed to see what could be done to make a Cuban sandwich different, it was heaven on toasted bread, unlike any I have eaten before.

Cubano with fried yucca

Cubano with fried yucca

Sancocho is another Panamanian tradition, just like Mayra texting while she eats. This soup was the best Sancocho either of us has ever eaten.

Sancocho, Panamanian Chicken Soup

Sancocho, Panamanian Chicken Soup

Mayra never tasted a salad with marinated beef in it before this one, exceptional.

Organic Salad with marinated beef

Organic Salad with marinated beef

Oliver was trained as a chef in Chile, so when I saw Lobster Empanadas on the menu I knew it would be a test of his education. We spent two weeks in Chile eating scores of empanadas in January, none tasted this good.

Lobster Empanada

Lobster Empanada

Grilled Fish

Grilled Fish

If you look at the Corvina plate in the Rock review and look at this grilled fish you will see some signatures of the chef and some new innovations.

Pork Chop

Pork Chop

Chuleta, pork chop,  in Panama usually means a thin cut, rib in pork chop either grilled to oblivion or fried. This two rib thick chop was moist on the inside and covered in a perfectly complimentary sauce.

If this was not enough to make you salivate our final evening meal had the following menu. Neither of us could make to the end and it was very fortunate we only had to walk a few score meters to our room.

menu

So to all you who say Chiriqui does not have GREAT food, you just haven’t been to Isla Palenque, yet.

This is the LINK to their website for more information.


Boquetes carousel of restaurants

Back on Dec 9 2012 I wrote a short piece about five new restaurants that opened in Boquete.  Three out of five are gone within four months, Los Faroles, Fuzion Grill and El Sazon de la Abuela, pictured below.

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The other two Porotos and Cafe and Cacao are still open and hope they have better luck than those who closed.  I have still not eaten at Porotos but I have enjoyed excellent coffee at Cafe and Cacao.

The Bistro closed and has reopened with a new chef, again, and at least three more restaurants have opened recently, One Eyed Franks, a German restaurant in San Francisco Plaza and Georges Grill in Palo Alto. I wish all of them success. I have only tried Frank’s and really enjoy eating there, hopefully I will get to the others.

I do have point in this post, the point is that many people move to Boquete and try to fulfill their dreams by turning a hobby into a business, many try restaurants, most fail. I believe the two that failed were owned by local residents. I have seen so many people come, try and fail that I feel obliged to express a word of caution to people who come here and assume they can create a dream and succeed. The restaurant business is very difficult and just because you can cook does not mean you can run a business, equally just because you can run a business does not mean you can run a successful restaurant.

If you are coming here with plans to turn a culinary hobby into a business please do your homework before leaping on the carousel.


Weekend celebration and then a thank you

I really dislike going to Panama City, but if you live in Panama the center of the world is in the Capital and at times you must go. Usually I need to go to visit a government Ministry since everything in this country is centralized the offices in the Provinces can rarely do much of anything. This time was different, a better reason and over a weekend.

Via Espana Panama City

Via Espana Panama City

This trip was with Mayra and both of her daughters, Karina and Johana to formally celebrate the engagement of Johana.

Karina, Johana, Mayra

Karina, Johana, Mayra

After a seven hour bus trip we received a room at the Milan Hotel early, and slept to recover from sleeping on the 11PM semi express bus. Then  we did a little shopping, I forgot it was Saturday some of the markets, the kosher markets, were closed. I forgot it was the first day of Passover and Sabbath too, oh well, those little grey cells are overused.We did our spice shopping at Foodie.

Then later went to the engagement dinner at Lung Fung, which I think has the worst Chinese Food in Panama. After the formal meeting of the families, Mayra, Karina and I went out for a drink to relax. It was a formal meeting because Johana is marrying into a Indian family and the Hindu traditions are different than any we know.

Sunday morning I wanted to compensate for Lung Fung, so I took the group to the Golden Unicorn for great Dim Sum. In my opinion, Lung Fung and Golden Unicorn, both in Panama City are the opposite extremes in Chinese cuisine.

Then the trip home, long but uneventful until I hit the rain driving from David to Boquete. Allow me to suggest avoiding that ride at night if you can. Between the detours and lack of paint on the highway it is really difficult to know where you are on the road. It is easy to slide into a ditch.

I avoided the ditches, at least until I started up Jaramillo, up the muddy unpaved road that climbs to my house. My Rexton hit a slippery spot I slid backwards into a drainage channel. What do you do at 8:30PM on a rural road in Panama when you are stuck in a ditch. This is the magical difference in Panama, no AAA, I could have called for a tow truck but they might never have found me or ended up in the same ditch.

Instead I called my neighbor. As I waited for Carlin, Kent and Phyllis, other neighbors drove up and offered to help. Eventually using Carlin’s winch and his jeep tied to Kent’s pickup I was extricated. Then Carlin tried backing down the hill and ended up in the same ditch. We extracted him and with Carlin leading in the jeep and Kent walking by my side I backed down to a point I could turn the car and return to an intersection and use a paved road up the hill.

There is a message in this monologue. Panama is a country of diversity, a melting pot. Panama has attracted some great people along with the losers. I know my neighbors, we rely on each other, this is a lot different than my life in Arizona. I knew I could call any neighbor when I was stuck, I never hesitated, they also know they can call me if they need help, when that has happened I never hesitated either. This is a very different than my past life, I prefer this life. Thank you to Kent, Phyllis and Carlin, all of you are reasons I love living here in the boonies.

 


Goods Eats: One Eyed Franks Saloon and Restaurante Italiano

I stopped reviewing restaurants some time ago but when I find someplace worth recommending I do say something. I want to get up on my roof and shout about One Eyed Franks. I am writing about it a second time because I want people to make the trip to Palmira and keep Frank busy.

I have been there three times and left smiling each time, that is more than I can write about most restaurants in Boquete. I have taken different people there each time I have gone so between us we have had six different dishes there and each time I am more impressed. All those who have gone with me were also pleased that’s a 6/6 rating.

It is a restaurant, so food is first, the food is simply fantastic. Good New York style Italian food, copious quantities of quality food. Each time I have been there Frank has been there, he does not hover at the table unless asked to, but he asks the right question, how is everything. The service is good, the food great and the prices reasonable.

This is not an elegant tuxedoed affair but a very Italian joint from the Bronx lacking the red checkered table cloths. Dining is both inside and out, the beer is cold, the food is hot. There is no need to argue about a jubilado discount the menu has both prices right on it.

I have the menu below, but check the white board for the specials, they make the trip worthwhile. The map below is courtesy of the Car Dealer who keeps his cars in the shade, thank you Keith.

Map One Eyed Franks Map One to Eyed Franks[/caption]

I had a photo of the baked Ziti also, but I think I ate it. Click on any photo so see it larger.

If you receive this in email I think the mouth watering photos require a trip to the web site.


Searching for a sea mans lunch in David? Sedimar might be perfect

Questing for good seafood? I often look for a place to eat in David and am surprised David does not have a larger number of Seafood restaurants. Mayra’s daughter Karina works for the Maritime Authority and is based in Pedregal. I asked her were she and her workmates go for lunch. The answer Sedimar. We decided to visit Sedimar and see why.

To get to Sedimar drive to the airport in David and keep going into Pedregal. This is a spot for lunch, Pedregal is considered a Red Zone, not safe at night. Before you get to the port where the road ends you will see Sedimar on your left side. It is worth stop is you are hungry and want fresh seafood at reasonable prices. This is a Sea Food greasy spoon, not Red Lobster not elegant, good food, reasonable prices and no atmosphere.

Sedimar David Panama

Sedimar David Panama

Sedimar David Panama

 

Our lunch is pictured below, we ordered one order of Arroz a la Marinara. It cost $9.50 and two of use surrendered before finishing the plate. Yes that really is crab on the pile of rice and seafood. Think enhanced Paella.

One order was enough for two

One order was enough for two

Sedimar David Panama

Sedimar David Panama


One Eyed Franks, the place for pizza and more

When we left for Argentina I anticipated great beef, great beer and great pizza. I explained to Mayra that despite any rumors she may have heard Buenos Aires Argentina is more Italian than Spanish. Dan, Deborah, Mayra and I ate pizza at least twice in Buenos Aires and once in Mendoza; it was not my memory of great.

IMG_0381

This Pizza was the best we ate in Buenos Aires at a little place called Ameilias near Recoleta Cemetery. Like all the pizza we had in Argentina it lacked red sauce, used loads of fresh things that looked and tasted like vegetables and had olives placed in strategic places. Perhaps it is my Brooklyn heritage for the only thing they had in common with my perception of pizza was they were disks of bread and there was cheese melted on them.

IMG_0685

The pizza above eaten in a starving moment on a Sunday in Mendoza Argentina. As we discovered in Mendoza on a Sunday nothing was open. no stores, few restaurants, not even a pharmacy for antacids. This was really an open face ham and cheese melt served by a scowling gentleman who made me feel both young and cordial.

IMG_1075

Last night I finally found the pizza I wanted and it was a lot closer than Argentina. Perhaps it is in my genes but New York pizza is what I crave. That faux pizza from Italy or Argentina lacks the pizzaz of my childhood.

One Eyed Frank has opened in Palmira and Frank has a chef and from all reports great food. We went for the pizza and neither Mayra, who loathes pizza, nor I were disappointed. Mayra actually ate a slice, that says a lot. I am savoring the remains of the pizza for breakfast, an old fraternity addiction.

Frank’s is open every day except Tuesday from 12:00 until 8 P.M. 6 Nights a Week (everyday except Tuesday).

Here is a map courtesy of Keith Woolford. It is worth the drive but beware at night the road is curvy and has lots of people walking all time of day and night.

Screenshot_20130203194710


Back in the saddle again at Amigos

Saturday was a great way to slide back into the Boquete saddle. While we were scouring South America in search of the perfect meals Amigos regained it’s ability to play music. Amigos also decided to let the community know about their new chef. Yossette Blades, better known as the voice of the B3 band. Yosette is also a CIA (Culinary Institute of America) trained chef and has taken over the kitchen at Amigos.

Chef Yosette Blades

Chef Yosette Blades

Yesterday Amigos filled the house, inside and out for a tasting of some new dished, some wines and some excellent music. Caesar Sherrard assembled a group with Adam Reach, a bass guitarist and a Sax player from Cuba. They were excellent and balanced the food and drink with rhythm.

The food was a big hit and major improvement, the big surprise to me was Yosette found a source of good beef, the rib eye was tender and juicy. After returning from Argentina I was hoping to discover a place with good beef, I will need to return and order an entire steak.

Good luck to Amigos and good times to all those present.


Christmas dining

As we approach Christmas I have been barraged by restaurants in Boquete offering Christmas dinners for prices from $24.95 up, most have the fine print that this is a special price not subject to the 25% jubilado discount. I never fault the restauranteurs, they need to earn a living but I want to share an option.

As several people in Boquete have discovered the restaurant in the Hotel Ciudad de David has an excellent buffet lunch. They are doing an enhanced holiday buffet until New Years Eve. Mayra and I stopped by Friday and enjoyed the fare.

Hotel Ciudad David

Salad Bar is excellent

The entrees included pasta with shrimp, beef overcooked (This is Panama) in wine and excellent Turkey with lots of rice.

Turkey entree

Turkey entree

All this topped off with dessert from a too good to pass up selection.

Desert selection

Desert selection

Made for a smiling Mayra.

Ciudad de David5

I am not suggesting that you abandon Boquete for David but if you are in David any afternoon you should try the restaurant in the Hotel Ciudad David, they have parking in the building and good eats in the restaurant. The cost for holiday spread is $16 plus tax less the Jubilado discount, normally the price is $12. Still for half the price of the Boquete offerings you can enjoy an elegant Panamanian Christmas meal.


A cycle of new places to eat and drink in Boquete

I blinked and in that time a series of new places to explore my culinary interests have opened. I am going to list them in no particular order so people become aware of them and basically what they are. I do not have a lot of details since I have not eaten in any of  the places yet.

Batidos on Main Street

You can start on Main Street in Bajo Boquete, just across from the Mandarin  Market with a Batido, spell that fresh fruit smoothie.

El Sazon de la Abuela

El Sazon de la Abuela

Sharing the same building is a new typico, Sazon de la Abuela, Seasoning of my Grandmother.

Cafe & Cacao

Down the Street next to the Dollar Store is Cafe & Cacao. They have a full coffee shop menu and a lot of smiling faces.

Cafe & Cacao Menu

Cafe & Cacao Menu

Right Across from Global Bank is Porotos, a bar with a restaurant in the garden and a casino near the bar. You can eat, drink and gamble your evening away. They are also going to have live music to annoy those who want downtown quiet at 10PM.

Porotos the Kidney Bean

Their lunch special looks like a deal.

 

In addition Los Faroles in Alto Boquete is new and specializing in Chicken.

Los Faroles Menu

Los Faroles Menu

The former Las Ruinas has reopened as Fuzion Grill, Craig Jabobs is now operating the Sabor Restaurant in Valle Escondido and Amigos has quietly brought in a Culinary Institute of America chef.

Things are looking up in the Foodie circuit.


In defense of the restaurants of Boquete Panama

I do not write real reviews of restaurants any more, I seldom eat in restaurants in Boquete because I enjoy creating food at home. When I was writing reviews I discovered one trip was insufficient to judge any restaurant and it was rare I was willing to do two or three more in a close enough time range to be meaningful. I also discovered when I wrote my real opinion, if negative, it was never received well, so I quit doing reviews.

Recently I have been listening to comments by expats that the cost of eating out in Boquete has increased; shocking. The cost of everything has increased in Panama, the annual inflation so far for this year is six percent but the real cost increases in Boquete are much higher.

The last round of Minimum wage increases in Panama moved Boquete into a new group clustered with Panama City, increasing the base for all wages in Boquete. This plus the increase in minimum wages increased labor costs in Boquete by as much as 40% literally overnight.

As Boquete has grown, the cost of rentals has also increased and from the experience of searching I can say it is much more expensive to find a space for a business now in Boquete than six years ago.

The influx of retires waving their pensionado cards and requesting discounts of 25% on meals is a cost that the restaurants, not the government must shoulder.

As we notice the costs of fuel for transportation seems to ratchet up, then down a little then up again. Each time it goes up the cost of local and imported foods increases, other than for some seasonal anomalies the costs rarely retreat.

So why are restaurants charging more for meals? Increased rent, increased food costs, increased wages for employees and factoring in the 25% discount given to an aging expat population.

So if the cost of eating out is beyond your budget learn how to cook at home.

guacho de guandu

guacho de guandu

In the past I posted some recipes using local ingredients, I will soon post some more. There are some excellent uses for the wonderful fresh foods grown here in Panama.

Recognize even the most expensive restaurants in Boquete are a bargain compared to many other places in the world and the typicos are still dirt cheap. Since low prices are the goal in most typicos you will not often see the real cuisine of Panama for $3.25 a meal. You will see a pile of carbs and a little meat. For the real cuisine of Panama be creative with local ingredients and become a culinary legend.