Weekend celebration and then a thank you

I really dislike going to Panama City, but if you live in Panama the center of the world is in the Capital and at times you must go. Usually I need to go to visit a government Ministry since everything in this country is centralized the offices in the Provinces can rarely do much of anything. This time was different, a better reason and over a weekend.

Via Espana Panama City

Via Espana Panama City

This trip was with Mayra and both of her daughters, Karina and Johana to formally celebrate the engagement of Johana.

Karina, Johana, Mayra

Karina, Johana, Mayra

After a seven hour bus trip we received a room at the Milan Hotel early, and slept to recover from sleeping on the 11PM semi express bus. Then  we did a little shopping, I forgot it was Saturday some of the markets, the kosher markets, were closed. I forgot it was the first day of Passover and Sabbath too, oh well, those little grey cells are overused.We did our spice shopping at Foodie.

Then later went to the engagement dinner at Lung Fung, which I think has the worst Chinese Food in Panama. After the formal meeting of the families, Mayra, Karina and I went out for a drink to relax. It was a formal meeting because Johana is marrying into a Indian family and the Hindu traditions are different than any we know.

Sunday morning I wanted to compensate for Lung Fung, so I took the group to the Golden Unicorn for great Dim Sum. In my opinion, Lung Fung and Golden Unicorn, both in Panama City are the opposite extremes in Chinese cuisine.

Then the trip home, long but uneventful until I hit the rain driving from David to Boquete. Allow me to suggest avoiding that ride at night if you can. Between the detours and lack of paint on the highway it is really difficult to know where you are on the road. It is easy to slide into a ditch.

I avoided the ditches, at least until I started up Jaramillo, up the muddy unpaved road that climbs to my house. My Rexton hit a slippery spot I slid backwards into a drainage channel. What do you do at 8:30PM on a rural road in Panama when you are stuck in a ditch. This is the magical difference in Panama, no AAA, I could have called for a tow truck but they might never have found me or ended up in the same ditch.

Instead I called my neighbor. As I waited for Carlin, Kent and Phyllis, other neighbors drove up and offered to help. Eventually using Carlin’s winch and his jeep tied to Kent’s pickup I was extricated. Then Carlin tried backing down the hill and ended up in the same ditch. We extracted him and with Carlin leading in the jeep and Kent walking by my side I backed down to a point I could turn the car and return to an intersection and use a paved road up the hill.

There is a message in this monologue. Panama is a country of diversity, a melting pot. Panama has attracted some great people along with the losers. I know my neighbors, we rely on each other, this is a lot different than my life in Arizona. I knew I could call any neighbor when I was stuck, I never hesitated, they also know they can call me if they need help, when that has happened I never hesitated either. This is a very different than my past life, I prefer this life. Thank you to Kent, Phyllis and Carlin, all of you are reasons I love living here in the boonies.

 


Panama City : Tocumen Airport and into the belly of El Cangrejo

I live in Boquete Panama but I just flew into Panama City from Guayaquil Ecuador. It has been at least two years since I flew out of and arrived at Tocumen, Panama’s largest International airport.

When I left I had only carry on luggage and printed my boarding pass online, it made the Tocumen experience painless, no lines, no time at all. The airport is a melange of duty free shops few if any bargains, but busy. Flying Copa was smooth, they left on time, they served a meal, they provided free drinks including wine, beer and rum and finally they arrived on time in Guayaquil.

I left Panama with some gifts, a bottle of Ron Abuelo and a pound of my own coffee. They did not make rum in Ecuador and although they do grow coffee, nothing is better than Boquete Panama coffee! I returned with a Panama Hat. The hat internationally known as the Panama hat is not made in Panama, they are from Ecuador.
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Not having a portable printer I could not print my return boarding pass. The long slow line to check in have motivated the need to acquire a portable inkjet printer before my next flight. The Internet can make flying easier.

When I arrived back in Tocumen immigration and customs were a breeze. If you have a permanent residency in Panama you short cut the process and get in the short line for citizens. Then came the annoying issue of getting from Tocumen airport to El Cangrejo, the site of both the conference and my hotel. Panama City lacks even passable public transport.

The taxis want an outrageous $28 to drive into the city and I was feeling adventurous. I said no, es caro.( It’s too expensive) to the taxi fare. I was surprised when I was seamlessly transitioned to something new to me, a collectivo. A nice car with air conditioning and two other passengers going to the same area; the fare $11. The collectivo works well if you are traveling alone.

The conference is in Veneto Hotel and Casino and I was offered a deal on a room for $125 a night, $50 less than their $175 rack rate. A $28 cab ride was too rich for my blood, a $125 room in Panama City seemed obscene. I booked a room at another area hotel, the Marbella. I have never stayed at the Marbella before and it is low on my list for the future. Their rate is $80 a night plus taxes, $40 with the jubilado discount, not too bad compared to the Veneto. Then comes the fine print, if you have a roommate add $15, not discounted, if you eat breakfast it’s not included either. The room I was in 222 had view of a wall, an air conditioner that had no controls, just plug it in and freeze or unplug and bake. I lasted one night.

Later that evening I took a friend out for a belated birthday dinner. We wanted steak and I remembered the sign at the Veneto for a New York steak dinner, $19 including a bottle of wine. It seemed to be worth a try. The New York Steakhouse in the Veneto Hotel is a beautiful venue. After being seated we waited, we waited and waited some more, finally we waved, jumped and caught the attention of an inattentive staff.

Menus and a wine list arrived with prices rivaling Smith and Wollensky in New York City, $65 for an imported Porterhouse; we ordered the special. It started with a nice salad and fresh rolls with honey butter. A bottle of cheap Chilean red wine and finally a not so wonderful steak, served with overcooked vegetables and a small dab of decent mashed potatoes. We completed masticating the steak and drinking the wine, then headed across the street to the Wine Bar.

If you want a really good Filet and far better bottle of wine for about the same cost, allow me to recommend the filet at the Wine Bar or the shared El Pomodoro, which has the same items often for a lower menu price. The El Pomodoro in El Cangrejo Panama is far better and less expensive then its namesake in Boquete. Don’t let a poor experience in Boquete prevent trying the Panama City location.


Radisson Decapolis Hotel Panama City

Given a choice I prefer to stay in Boquete Panama, it’s cool and quiet on Jaramillo. However occasionally there is a need to go to the big city, there is only one big city in Panama, Panama City. Usually, if I need to stay overnight I stay in a low brow hotel like the Las Vegas or Milan. Nothing fancy about either of them, but they are clean and in a busy district with late night diversions.

On the suggestion on a friend, I decided to try upscaling to the Radisson Decapolis. The Decapolis is located on Avenida Balboa at the Multiplaza Shopping center. Staying at the Decapolis in Panama City is like staying in an international class hotel anyplace in the world. The guests are a melange of people transiting the city for tourism and business. The one thing they have in common is they can afford the tariff and want to have a safe, secure, comfortable venue for retreat.

The lobby is bright and cheery and sports a large bar that also serves sushi.
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The basic standard room I took, had two double beds and was clean, bright and very pleasant. Like most international hotels it lacked anything to let you know what country you were visiting. It is like McDonalds, regardless of the location the food is just about the same, some local differences, but not too much.DepacolisPanama000.jpg

One of the selling points for my visit was that the value would be there, I am frugal. Breakfast was included in the rack rate, a nice buffet and custom prepared eggs. I tried breakfast three times, I preferred the Eggs Benedict, below, to the other options. Their attempt at Huevos Rancheros did not remind me of anything I had with that name in Mexico or Arizona.
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The rooms include a safe, mini bar and free wired internet. Bring your cable because using theirs adds $10 to the bill. Wireless is available at a fee.

Here is the economic breakdown if you are interested.

Rack rate $149 plus tax per night

Breakfast is valued at $15 and included. It is probably worth close to that in many locations but in Panama I usually spend about $3 for all I can eat.

The give you $20 bar credit also. A rum Abuelo cost $5 and Beer $3.75. These are higher prices than my usual haunts but reasonable in a high end hotel.

If you are a gambler they also give you $25 in matching faux funds for their casino.

They do honor the jubilation discount so the bill for a night tallies like this

$149.95 plus tax becomes $114.73
Less $15 for breakfast
Less $20 drinks

Make it $79.73 a night. I should add they have a discount plan with many stores in MultiCentro. I did not do any shopping but if for example you shop for furniture at Conway the brochure says you will get 10% off. That might make your stay at the Decapolis a real deal.


Hotel Milan Panama City

Another road trip from Boquete Panama to the capital, Panama City. I decided to drive instead of fly so i could pickup a friend at the airport and procure some items not found in Chiriqui. David has everything you need but Panama City has become a mecca to visitors from around the globe and has almost anything you might want. I wanted a few things I did not need.

When in Panama City I try to stay at the Hotel Milan in El Cangrejo, the district is busy, noisy, full of tourists and restaurants. It is such a contrast to Boquete that for a few days at time I can enjoy the area.

The Milan is the first hotel we stayed at on our first trip to Panama and it has become a habit. Although rates have increased significantly in two years from $25 to $70 a night it is still a deal. They give the jubilado discount so my real cost is $38.50 a night during the week and a bit more on weekends. If you lack a Pensionado visa ask about the cash discount it is usually 25% to anyone not using a jubilado card.

I enjoy the Milan for several reasons, location, cleanliness, security, secure parking and their small but affordable restaurant. If you need a place in the city I advise booking in advance they are often full.

Their telephone is 507-263-6130 email hotelmilan@cwpanama.net and their is online information at this link.


TexMex in Panama City

After we checked at the Air Panama Counter for our flight to Boquete we realized the in airport restaurant was closed and we had a hour before boarding. Jennifer discovered an article about a new Tex Mex restaurant near Albrook. We grabbed a cab and in two minutes we were at Mrs. Mendoza’s. It is is located in the El Rey shopping center about half a kilometer from the airport.

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The owner has several restaurants in Florida and we hoped this would be a treat, it was

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Clean, fresh and fast service brought us good food fast.

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Three good tacos with refried beans for $4.95. Good food, a fair price and a reminder of Tucson.

After a tasty meal we walked back to the airport, an acknowledgment of how close it is and that we enjoyed our meal, completely.

They accept credit cards, had no problem providing a jubilado discount. Watch out before you tip. they do add the Propina (tip) into the check. Something we keep finding in Panama.


Walking Panama City – Mercado de Mariscos

It was about noon when I arrived the the Seafood Market. The plaque on the wall said it was built with money from Japan in 2005. It looks and feels more than three years old. I am not sure why there never seems to be a budget to maintain capital projects. Large investments fall into disrepair all too quickly.

The lower floor of this market is laden with fish and other seafood.

The upper floor is a restaurant that provides the opportunity to carry some fresh seafood home, internally.

I arrived at 12:30 and seating was filled. After I looked at a menu I understood why.

Click on this for a menu big enough to read.

Fresh seafood, prepared fast and for very low prices.

My lunch was one of my favorites

Pescado Frito, a whole fried fish for $3.75. It was light, flaky and although I have no idea what type of fish it was I enjoyed it completely.


International Pizza, comfort food in Panama City

 By far the best pizza I have had in Panama is at Napoli in Obarrio. This is not about them nor Italian style pizza but our random encounter with restaurants that sell Greek and Argentine style Pizza. I am actually not at all sure that there is much of a distinction on pizza which is truly an international comfort food.

The football corner is on the same quite street where we are staying. They are open seven days a week and feature pizza and other perhaps more authentic treats.
Jennifer has a thing about white pizza and they have scores of combinations including this custom large with onions, Olive oil, Oregano and bacon. She was happy and actually ate some. Cost $6.80.

A nice salad for $3 rounded out the meal.

They have a wonderful selection of empanadas filled with meat, chicken, cheese including blue cheese variations and some nice deserts.

This is not a great restaurant but a nice neighborhood spot for a fast satisfying bit of international comfort food in a relaxed atmosphere.

Around the corner on the intersection of Calle 50 and Calle Uruguay is Athens Pizza. [Read more...]


Sunday Dim Sum at the Golden Unicorn

Wendy, a reader of this blog suggested we try Dim Sum at the Golden Unicorn in the Evergreen building near the Atalapa Convention Center. Today seemed like the perfect day to take her suggestion, stop for some blood tests at Hospital Punta Pacifica and head to the Auto Show at Atalapa. Jennifer opted for Dracula and dim sum, guess the Halloween spirit is with her already. I selected Dim Sum and new cars.

Our cab driver was a bit confused about the Evergreen building but he found it and dropped us at the lobby. We followed a Chinese family to the fourth floor and discovered olfactory delights.

We were seated and soon surrounded with Dim Sum carts, trays and all the wonderment of no knowing names in either Chinese, Spanish or English for the tempting treats. It did not take long to order, to point, to sign and since Jennifer can play charades with the best we were soon well satiated.

We soon discovered a few wait staff could at least understand our poor Spanglish and with that we requested some goodies. Duck, Taro cakes and baked Char Pao. Nicholas please re-read the word duck, pato, quack.

A pile of spicy calamari,  yes Gumby crunchy calamari.

A much happier, Jennifer. She lost 30 pounds of water this week as her kidneys recovered.

We will return to the Golden Unicorn for a dinner the food we had was excellent. The service was excellent they honored the jubilado discount with no issues and it was a wonderful experience.  Thank you Wendy!


Review Madam Chang’s – Panama City

As Jennifer is rebounding from her near death experience we are visiting both doctors and restaurants both on a daily basis. Since we are staying in the Calle Uruguay area we have a wide selection of restaurants to choose from.

Before we checked out of the hospital Jennifer specifically asked if she could eat Chinese food; the answer was to avoid red meat and salty food like Chinese. Well it’s less than a week later and she is avoiding salting her Chinese food.

I did not expect to enjoy Madam Chang’s, I saw too many ads in too many tourist publications. I expected a tourist crowd and tourist prices. I was wrong on the crowd each time we went it was locals, the prices are high for Panama but the food was excellent cross the board.

Our first lunch was dim sum, spring rolls and Siu Mae to be exact. The spring rolls were $5.50, the Siu Mae $4.75.

If you notice the bowl of dark liquid it is Chinese Chili Oil, something my wife has been seeking since we landed on these shores. In fact she asked for some to take home and they provided her a 12 ounce bottle full.; Jennifer is smiling.

The spring rolls were unremarkable but good served hot and crunchy, the Siu Mae was wonderful, best to date in Panama.

Jennifer followed with a Chinese Chicken salad. Flavorful napa cabbage, chicken and crunchy noodles, $4.75.

My lunch was Duck Soup. Madam Chang’s needed to top the fantastic Duck Soup at the Chinese Steakhouse in David. This looked better, had more duck, crunchy vegetables but a very weak broth. It was well worth the $4.50 for the chucks of duck but I left most of the broth and all of the noodles in the bowl.

Madam Chang’s has a lunch buffet for $10.95 we did not try it but I am sure we will before we leave town.

On our next trip we tried the outstanding Hot and Sour soup $3.75 and this plate with one half a Peking Duck, a delicacy I enjoy. Small flat bread, scallions, duck sauce and half a duck piled high on a bed of lettuce. Make your own mini rolls.

The magic is the duck skin, crunch and flavor. We were not disappointed it was to quote Jennifer wonderful. It was a treat at $20 for 1/2 a duck but worth the extravagance.

When you receive your bill at Madam Chang’s check it they add a 10% Propina, tip to the bill so don’t double tip.

The restrooms are 6/6 clean, running water, toilet seats, TP, soap and towels

It may not me Lung Fung a favorite for Dim Sum but it is elegant. The service excellent. the food excellent and the atmosphere very relaxed considering it’s location on restaurant row Calle Uruguay.


Rincon Aleman – German Food in Panama City

We are staying in an apartment on a street with four restaurants. With Jennifer still weak and tired we are eating close to the apartment. Tonight we tried a restaurant owned by Panama’s famous Willy Digglemann Rincon Aleman.

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I have walked by the restaurant day and night for a week and wondered why it is often empty, now I know.

German food does not normally inspire me but I respect Willy Digglemann and so enjoy El Pomodoro and have heard nothing but raves about 1985. We needed to give it a try. This is NOT a review but a quicky for someplace I will not return to after a first impression.

Jennifer ordered Pea Soup, it was $4 a fair price for a good soup with split peas, potatoes and a smokey bacon flavor; she enjoyed it. It arrived relatively soon after it was ordered.

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I was going to order a bratwurst for $3, a deal, but I asked what came with it, the answer was nothing. I decided on a complete dinner, I requested Hungarian Golash. It not inexpensive at $12 but I imagined that I would receive a meal, golash, noodles etc. Something like this.

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The waitress came back and said the chef suggested I have Spatzel with it. I said why not. Then we waited, and waited and Jennifer grew tired and left and I still waited.

Finally the food arrived. Did I mention we were the only customers in the restaurant? If I had said no to the Spatzel I would have been presented with a plate with one large spoonful of savory tasty meat on an otherwise empty plate. The Spatzel was necessary to the meal. If it was necessary to complete the plate why did another $3 go onto my bill, why not make is $15 and include the spatzel?

There is nothing wrong with the food at Rincon Aleman, it is the menu and the service. If you are serving a dinner make it a dinner include all the components in the price. If you are custom preparing meals and it will take 30 minutes let the customer know it will take 30 minutes.

I was not very happy when I left, I felt violated, I will not return. The food was good, the pricing, service and menu are the issue. For a successful restaurateur like Willy Diggelmann I expected better. Color me disappointed.