Nobody asked, but here is the Recipe for Boquete Chili Verde

In Texas they have a bowl of red, in Tucson I preferred a bowl of green, chili that is, Chili Verde. Chili Verde is what I make here in Boquete Panama. It takes a little work to find all the ingredients in Chiriqui, but for me it is comfort food and worth the effort.

My Chili Verde  does not win any prizes but I like it and it can be done with almost entirely local ingredients. This is not exactly the same as what I prepared for the Buenos Vecinos event, nor is it traditional, but it is my preferred method using what we have available here way south of Arizona.

chili verde

Boquete Chili Verde con Puerco, the recipe, not the picture, I forgot to take a picture.

Scaled for 8 servings mas o menos

1.o kilo of Carne Lisa, boneless pork, usually from the leg, they say. Cubed in 1 cm cubes. I ground it for the cook off, but cubed is much better.

8 poblano chiles, fresh, usually at Super Baru or Romero, San Mateo in David. You can substitute canned green chiles if you can find them. I buy these when they have them, roast, skin and freeze for when I want them. The level of heat varies a great deal with the local Poblanos but they tend toward mild.  You can kick it up with a couple of chopped Jalapeños which you can usually find in the same places.

1 -2 Tbs lard or if you insist vegetable oil

1 large onion chopped

5-6 cloves of garlic, chopped

1tsp of cumin

4 chopped Culantro leaves (Cilantro is good too)

1 can 15oz of cubed tomatoes, drained or better some blanched, skinned roma tomatoes, remove the seeds and cube.

200 grams mas o menos of tomatilloschopped fine or pureed, hard to find here, in a pinch use a can of green mexican salsa, I do.

A six pack of Balboa or other lager, don’t waste the dark beer on this, drink it instead.

salt

some flour as needed

some corn meal, I like the Arepas corn meal because I have it in the house.

Ok the fun starts now

You need to fire roast the chilies, here are a few techniques.

1. Using insulated thongs hold them over a gas flame, rotating until charred evenly and then put them into a covered heatproof ceramic or glass container and cover adding them until all are done.

or

2. Put them on a tray under a broiler, turning as needed to char and them,  then put them into a covered heatproof ceramic or glass container and cover adding them until all are done.

Let them sit until cold and the skin will come off easily. Wash and removed stems and seeds.

Chop the chilies and if you have a food processor turn half into a pulp, leave half chopped.

Cookery

Next heat up a heavy dutch oven or a big heavy frying pan with a lid on the stove, add the lard and then the pork chunks. You want to brown the pork so if necessary do it in batches. Remove the pork and add the onions and garlic. Sauté until translucent but not brown. Then add enough flour to absorb the lard and cook a little more to cook the flour.

Return the pork and any juices from the pork. Add the tomatillos, cumin, culantro, the chile both the puree and chopped and one can of beer, less the can of course. Open a second beer for consumption because this is hard work.

Cover and simmer until the pork is falling apart. I like to use a pressure cooker because I hate waiting, usually about 30 minutes of pressure works vs. hours of simmering on a stove and that way I still have some beer left for dinner. Or you can use a crock pot and lament the long term delay in eating.

Add salt to taste and enough corn meal to thicken the sauce. The corn meal adds a pleasing texture. The beer adds flavor and drinking it makes the entire experience worth doing, over and over.

Break out the tortillas or serve over rice and enjoy with any remaining beer.

 

 

 

 


Cinco de Mayo a faux holiday for a good cause

Today as we served Chili at Amigos Restaurant for the benefit of Buenos Vecinos, a good cause, Mayra, a Panamanian, asked me about Cinco de Mayo. She asked what it was about, my answer was that it was not really a Mexican Holiday but a something celebrated in the US Southwest. I was not able to provide any more details because I did not know any more. So here is a a good link to explain the origins and evolution of a holiday that was never really much of a holiday. LINK. Thank you Lynnie for the link.

Cinco de Mayo is a big day for local Mariachis and this event at Amigos had many participants who donated their time and money cooking Mexican food for the many attendees who came.

Buenos Vecinos de Boquete is a small group of volunteers who deliver food supplies to the handicapped and elderly on a monthly basis. If you missed the event you can make donations at the Tuesday meeting they will help feed people who need help.

I was surprised at the absence of another important community group that usually attends and participates in fund raising for good causes, no Dog Breath Chili from Amigos de Animales, a past award winner. I missed their energy and their chili. It is a shame they were not there.

IMG_1379

Still the food was good, the Panamanian Gene Autry, below, was fun and the food I managed to taste was all done with love.

IMG_1382

Mayra and I dished out some Boquete Green, our local variant of Chili Verde. We did not win any awards, but that was not the reason we went. We were there to support a group that does good things for people who need their assistance.

We the expats in Boquete do some very positive things for our community and those who benefit appreciate the assistance and that was obvious from the increased Panamanian participation in this and other events.

 


I found a Dorado in Bajo Boquete

Dorado is a great firm fish, also known up north as Mahi Mahi it is splendid to see fresh out of the ocean. the photo below is of Mayra’s daughter Karina on a fishing trip we made some time ago. This Dorado was assimilated a long time in the past, but memories still stir desires to find more like it.

Lee 012

Todays recipe is made from a Dorado I bought whole from the back of a pickup in Bajo Boquete, it was $2 a pound, whole. I asked the vendor to fillet it and he had broke out the knife and board.

IMG_1309

If you do not know how to pick a fresh fish from a vendor this old post has some hints. LINK

I took the filets and the skeleton and head too. They made for a great fish soup, but that is another story.

Thai Curried Dorado with Langostinos in a clam and curry sauce

Ingredients

Dorado filetes

Cleaned langosintos

cleaned, rewashed almejas, clams

Red and green bell peppers, Julianne

Thai yellow curry

cooking oil and butter

flour

Coconut milk

cooked rice as a side is perfect

I found the curry in Panama City at Foodie in Bar Harbor center, Patilla

IMG_1317

I like to dust the fillet with some flour to give it a crisp exterior

In a heavy frying pan melt some butter and add some olive oil. The butter helps browning, and pan fry the fish until it is done.

At the same time mas o menos, put 1 tbs of cooking oil into a heavy saucepan. Heat at medium and add some of the chili paste. How much is a guess base upon your heat level lust. I like a bit less than one tablespoon. Stir fry the chili until it is aromatic, not too long.

Add about half a cup of the coconut milk and stir until it boils. Add the langostinos and the clams. Then cook about five minutes or until the langostinos are turning pink. Add the vegetables and and the rest of the coconut milk. Bring back to a boil and give them about another five to seven minutes at a simmer. You want them cooked through but not rubber.

Plate the fish and rice, put the langostinos on the fish and pour the clam curry sauce over the fillet. Then savor the aroma. Sake is a great accompaniment and you can now get in at Romero.

 

 


A great vacation requires great food

There is a current thread running on Boquetening.com with a resident claiming the food in Chiriqui is not equal to Washington State. I am sure there are places in Washington State that have both excellent and awful food.  We have the same here, but because there are fewer people in Chiriqui Panama than in Seattle Washington, we have fewer of both.

Napoleon is credited with saying that “an army marches on it’s stomach”.  Not everyone will agree but to me a great vacation requires great food.  Great food can be mean different things to different people. I like to try new things. I like innovative cuisine, I like things I cannot or will not cook at home.

Our trip to Isla Palenque had included a surprise, great food, the best I have eaten in Chiriqui, the best I have eaten in Panama.

In April 2011 I wrote a restaurant review of The Rock in Boquete, in that review I said,  ”About two weeks ago Mayra and I ate at the La Casa de Lourdes, an acclaimed restaurant in El Valle.  The meal in El Valle was not even close in quality or taste; this was excellent food”. The chef at the Rock was a Panamanian named Oliver Blond, Oliver is now the chef at Isla Palenque.

Chef Oliver Blond

Chef Oliver Blond

On Isla Palenque the chef has a captive small and demanding market. He can be innovative or lazy. Oliver selected innovative and excellent. His food qualified as the best I have eaten in Panama. He has taken local ingredients and produced unique variations including some with very traditional names and non traditional execution.

The Island has it’s own organic gardens and produces much of what is served. It also has the Pacific Ocean on it’s doorstep providing fresh fish, lobster, shrimp and more.

So here is the naked truth, to us foodies, the following photos might be pornographic. These photos are a hollow expression of how good the food actually looked, smelled and tasted.

Like all people who never grew up,  I like to start with dessert. Here is a crepe stuffed with strawberries and covered with island produced coconut ice cream.

Strawberry crepe with coconut ice cream

Strawberry crepe with coconut ice cream

When Mayra saw traditional dishes on the menu she wanted to see how different they could be. She tried the Arroz con Pollo and said, “the is the best I have ever eaten”. It had both flavor and lots of chicken.

Arroz con pollo, Rice and Chicken

Arroz con pollo, Rice and Chicken

I needed to see what could be done to make a Cuban sandwich different, it was heaven on toasted bread, unlike any I have eaten before.

Cubano with fried yucca

Cubano with fried yucca

Sancocho is another Panamanian tradition, just like Mayra texting while she eats. This soup was the best Sancocho either of us has ever eaten.

Sancocho, Panamanian Chicken Soup

Sancocho, Panamanian Chicken Soup

Mayra never tasted a salad with marinated beef in it before this one, exceptional.

Organic Salad with marinated beef

Organic Salad with marinated beef

Oliver was trained as a chef in Chile, so when I saw Lobster Empanadas on the menu I knew it would be a test of his education. We spent two weeks in Chile eating scores of empanadas in January, none tasted this good.

Lobster Empanada

Lobster Empanada

Grilled Fish

Grilled Fish

If you look at the Corvina plate in the Rock review and look at this grilled fish you will see some signatures of the chef and some new innovations.

Pork Chop

Pork Chop

Chuleta, pork chop,  in Panama usually means a thin cut, rib in pork chop either grilled to oblivion or fried. This two rib thick chop was moist on the inside and covered in a perfectly complimentary sauce.

If this was not enough to make you salivate our final evening meal had the following menu. Neither of us could make to the end and it was very fortunate we only had to walk a few score meters to our room.

menu

So to all you who say Chiriqui does not have GREAT food, you just haven’t been to Isla Palenque, yet.

This is the LINK to their website for more information.


Recipe: Panama Summer Rolls

Many of my friends here depend on the local restaurants for daily sustenance, I prefer preparing food at home. Using traditional recipes as a baseline and innovating with locally available ingredients is always fun and sometimes makes for a great meal or in this case appetizer. I am not a professional chef, nor did I sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last night, I am just a hungry man.

Before Bob and Pon returned to Thailand I asked Pon for some advice on making some of her dishes. One I always enjoyed was the simple Thai summer roll, very similar to the Vietnamese summer roll. Today I made some Panamanian summer rolls, the only difference being what I put inside them were things I could buy locally and in David.

The Panama summer roll is fresh, not fried (which almost disqualifies it from bearing the name Panama) and can include what ever you can stuff into rice paper wraps. Here is what I did this morning.

Ingredients:

Rolls
Fresh Ginger, Shredded
Fresh Carrot grated
Fresh Bell pepper, Julianne
Fresh cucumber, Julianne
Fresh avocado, Julianne
Frozen Faux crab, precooked shrimp would be better but I didn’t have any.
Rice sticks
Rice paper wraps

These are the ingredients you will need to find in David in a Chinese market.

Rice Paper Wrapper

Rice Paper Wrapper

Rice Sticks

Rice Sticks

Dipping Sauce: This is Vietnamese
For the peanut sauce:
3/4 cup natural-style creamy peanut butter
1/3 cup water
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice (from about 1 1/2 medium limes)
4 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 1/4 teaspoons chile-garlic paste
1 medium garlic clove, mashed to a paste
1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Step one prep the sauce, I have a stick blender with a bowl so I just added all the pieces and made a puree. It is thick, spicy and habit forming. I think it will work well with grilled chicken and fish too. The sauce can be made in advance and kept refrigerated.

Then the rest. Clean, cut slice or grate the vegetables. Slice the faux crab or fut use small shrimp that are precooked and chilled.

Take the rice sticks and soak them for 3-4 minutes in cold water. Then add them to salted boil water and cook about three minutes until soft. Remove them and let them cool to room temperature.

Ingredients for Panama Roll

Ingredients for Panama Roll

Next you will need a big bowl of warm, not hot water to hydrate the rice paper. This is the only part that requires a delicate touch. Put the rice paper into the bowl and as soon as it is pliable remove it to a clean cutting board or other work surface. If you wait too long it will fall apart so it might take a few sheets to get it right.

Ready to roll

Ready to roll

Now for all you Mexican chefs comes the burrito roll. Layer you ingredients in the the lower 1/3 of the rice paper. then fold the end in to the center and roll as tight as you wish. When done it will look like this. You can refrigerate the rolls and serve them cold.

Panama Roll

a Panama Roll

The nice thing is that there is no such thing as a Panama Summer roll, so you can add anything you like. Probably the most traditional might be shredded cooked chicken breast, rice, lentils, culantro and some mayo! Play, innovate and enjoy.

You can get the Rice paper, rice sticks, Hoisin and chili garlic in David at Casa Lisa or any other Chinese market.


Coffee, our elixir

I spent yesterday afternoon with Rich Lipner of Dos Jefes roasting some of my coffee.

My coffee plants flowered just a few weeks ago after our first seasonal rain on Jaramillo. I did not know that the rain at the right time of the year triggers the blossoms.

Coffee Blossoms

Coffee Blossoms

The cycle from those blossoms to the finished product is almost a year. First the growth, then harvest starts in cycles starting near Halloween on my farm, the final harvest at year end. Coffee cherries do not all ripen at the same time, therefore anything but human picking adds mature and green cherries, we just want the red mature cher.
coffee1

We cherry pick by hand, one red cherry at a time usually picked by indigenous labor paid by the volume of cherries they pick. I have tried to pick coffee and I cannot even come close to what the professionals can do.
coffee4

Within a day of picking we take our cherries over to the Cafe Ruiz Beneficio to be cleaned of the husk and dried. They measure the cherries out by the Lata, the can, a five gallon can, the same unit used to measure the productivity of the pickers.

coffee3

After cleaning the cherry to remove the husk they sun dry the green beans.

coffee2

We then cure the beans for three or more months to reach the correct moisture level. Then a thin layer of what we call parchment is removed from the green beans. I use Ruiz for doing this process also, but the traditional method uses a large mortar and pestle similar to the one pictured below.

Coffee Boquete Panama025

After the parchment is removed we hand sort the beans looking for bad beans, broken beans, or cherries that made through the pulping process of husk removal.

coffee5

 

Finally it is time to roast in small batches, about four pounds per roast. That is what Rich and I did yesterday.

Roasting Coffee Boquete Panama

Roasting Coffee

After the roast and cooling we go through the beans one more time to remove any previously missed bad beans or any that are off color. All of this is a labor of love, because there is no way anyone can pay enough to cover all the costs of hand picked gourmet coffee production. This is not the same way the big boys do it, they need to make a profit.

You can almost smell the aromatic of fresh Ferdabella Boquete coffee in this photo.

Chow Trek8


Arepas, a rerun of a good breakfast treat

This morning I decoded to make Arepas for breakfast and I thought about how many times people have asked me about them. Many people buy them at the Tuesday market and I make them at home. They are easy to make and tasty. I decided to reprint this simple guide to Arepas with some enhancements based upon my preperations.

The history of Panama and Colombia separated about one hundred years ago. Before the US decided to acquire the ill fated French attempt at building the Panama Canal, Panama existed as a provence of Colombia. It is therefore no surprise that many of the traditional foods in Panama came from Colombia. If you go to the Tuesday market you can try an Arepa or if you are willing to get your hands wet make some yourself in minutes.

One very traditional food here is the tortilla, if you are familiar with tortillas from Mexico, Nicaragua, El Salvador or Guatemala, these are not the same thing. The Panamanian  tortilla asado is a direct descendant of the Arepa of Colombia, it is the same thing thinner and dryer.

Arepas are simple to make, tasty, moist inside and have lots of cheesy calories and protein, no meat here, no vegans either.

The ingredients are:

Donarepa, which is a precooked, dried, corn flour and some grated queso fresco or mozzarella cheese

1 cup precooked corn flour  (A dry corn, maize, flour, precooked and dried. There are many brands in Latin American markets including Romero. Look for a fine corn flour that is precooked, the word is precocida. It will usually say for Arepas.) I prefer the white corn but white or yellow will work and both taste really good.

1 cup of grated fresh cheese, Queso Fresca in Panama, try mozzarella in the US, it might work, farmers cheese or a Mexican queso fresca would be better.

1/2 tsp salt

1 Tbs of cooking oil or melted butter, butter is better

1+ cup of warm water

Mix all the ingredients together continuing to add water until is a smooth paste that you can form into a ball. You can do golf balls, tennis balls but not basketball sizes.

Heat a flat oiled grill over low heat, and put the ball on the grill flattening it down to about 1/3″  thickness. The moister the batter and the thicker the Arepa the better the texture and flavor. You want them moist inside and crunchy outside when done.

Panamanians overcook tortillas asado until they are dry inside. The Colombian version is moist and cheesy, much better. So look for bubbling on the surface and golden brown against the grill. Flip them and when browned on both sides they are ready to eat hot from the grill.

Arepas
golden brown and delicious.  Enjoy for breakfast, I do.


Tamales Panama Style

I am very partial to tamales, the type I found in Tucson, Arizona, these are differnet.

Panama has a very distinctive way of preparing Tamales. Unlike the Mexican Tamales the wrapping is either a Biajo or Banana leaf. The fillings also vary. Tamales are always a lot of work so make them in quantity and freeze them for a rainy day.

tamal

Tamales Panamanian style

Ingredients:

  1. Whole Chicken
  2. 12 small sweet chili peppers
  3. 2 cloves crushed garlic
  4. 6 coriander leaves
  5. 1 onion, chopped
  6. ¼ teaspoon black pepper
  7. 2 cubes chicken bullion
  8. 1 can tomato paste (6oz-174g)
  9. 2 boxes of raisins 1 ½ (600 grams)
  10. 1 small jar of olives
  11. 2 tablespoons capers
  12. 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  13. 1 can tomato sauce 170 gr (6 oz)
  14. 1 can of 241g green peas (8 ½ oz)
  15. 2 pounds new milled corn, fresh corn cut off the cob
  16. 24 leaves of banana or Bijao
  17. 1 ball of cooking twine
  18. Salt to taste

How to prepare:

  1. Cook the corn until smooth. Drain and then grind to a paste. Put aside for now.
  2. Cut the chicken into pieces. Saute the chicken with peppers, onions, cilantro, garlic, pepper and salt. Then add the tomato paste, tomato sauce and bouillon cubes. Cook it 10 minutes, then add enough water to cover the chicken well. Cover and let cook over low heat until soft. Add raisins, olives and capers and cook for 20 minutes.
  3. Finally Add in the peas. If you have too little liquid add a little more. This cooking liquid will be added to the corn to make a masa.
  4. Separate the chicken from mix, remove from the bones, shread and mix it back in. This is part of your filling. Drain extra liquid and reserve for the masa.
  5. The other part of the filling comes from adding some of the cooking liquid to the ground, cooked corn and making it into a paste, a masa.
  6. Wash the banana leaves, then insert them into a pot of boiling water and drain immediately. Cut the twine, long enough that you can to tie up the tamale. On each sheet is poured a spoonful of the masa dough.  Then some chicken followed by more dough, then wrap and tie. Repeat this procedure until all the dough used.
  7. In a large pot of boiling water add and cook tamales an hour. When you are ready to serve them out.

 


Ceviche instead of Monsanto

I would really like to write about the Monsanto Protection act, but I am too frustrated to bother. Instead how about a healthy repast, unless the mercury gets you.

Ceviche Panama Style

This is a dish made with Corvina, a sea bass common in Panama. Ceviche is found through out the region and is fish “cooked” in citrus.

ceviche2 pounds Corvina filets raw

3 cups fresh green lime juice

2 cups thinly sliced onion

4 cloves mashed garlic

1 fresh hot pepper (not sauce)

1 tablespoon salt

Cut the fish into very small pieces. Mix with salt, onion, garlic and place in a glass bowl. Add the green lime juice and fresh hot pepper. (Note: Cut the pepper in half. Remove the seeds. It can be chopped of left in bigger pieces that it can be easily removed before serving.) Mix well and make sure green lime juice covers fish. If more juice is needed it add it.

Cover and marinate for 24 hours in the refrigerator. Make sure to use only glass to marinate the fish as the liquid will react with metal or plastic. Remove the hot pepper.

Serve over lettuce leaves, accompanied by saltine crackers. As an appetizer this is 10-12 servings.

 

 


Where’s the beef?

Before leaving Boquete for Argentina my mouth was watering for Argentine beef. We were never disappointed, I wish I could say the same in Panama. The debate is why is the beef in Argentina, Canada or the US better tasting and more tender than what Panamanian cattle produce.

Beef_Grade_Chart

In the US and Canada the best and most expensive beef is marbled with fat and aged, preferably dry aged for several weeks. Dry aged Prime Beef is the gold standard and is bought and sold at a premium price in steakhouses.

Neither Panama nor Argentina ages it’s beef. The beef  ages in the truck in route to the store. Yet when I bit into the steak below in El Establo in Buenos Aires I was in carnivore heaven. Aged or not it was tender and excellent.

A great steak

Some would argue that beef in the US and Canada is grain feed and that beef in Panama grass feed. Grass fed beef is not as marbled as grain feed beef and thus is not as tender. The beef in Argentina is grass fed and not aged, so that is not the magic although it may help. Add that grass feed beef is probably healthier than the grain and antibiotic laden beef from the US feed lots.

The display of beef in Argentina shows beef cuts available there. They are not the same cuts as we see in the US or Panama, perhaps that is part of the difference. I kept looking for heavily marbled beef to cook, I never found any.

Beef Counter Buenos Aires

Beef Counter Buenos Aires

So what makes the difference, why is beef in Argentina heavenly for a carnivore and beef in Panama usually only good for stew? It is not the marbling nor the aging. An article in Epicurious suggests it is that they cook their beef longer in Argentina. Epicurious . Since no one can cook their beef longer than a typical Panamanian I will disagree. It could be how they cook their beef. We ate only grilled beef in Argentina, most beef here is stewed to a second death.

After some trial and error I think I found the answer to a good steak in Panama. First find a butcher that knows what a steak is supposed to be. I cannot find a chart of beef cuts for Panama, I once saw one at Riba Smith in Panama City and it looked like the beef does, large sections slabbed off the cow.

The chart of Argentine cuts is surprisingly from La Prensa in Panama.

1647070b

The chart below shows where the beef you want to grill comes from.
beef_chart

This a nice list from Chile making an effort to cross reference countries that actual have defined cuts. In Panama few people appear to grill beef, they guisado, stew it to death and therefore anything will become tender and everything will lose it’s flavor.

beef

So how does a someone who has no intentions for buying and butchering a beef cow  deal with the lust for a good steak in Panama. If you have deep pockets Super Baru and several restaurants have beef imported from the US. If you don’t want to spend $20 or more on a steak I am going to share some learned facts.

First Filete is Filet Minion, it is always tender but not very flavorful. You can follow and recipe for Filet Minion or oven roast a filete as a Chateaubriand. Since you can buy a filete here in Boquete for under $4 a pound, now 454 grams,  not a bad deal.

Go to Price Smart, they offer Rib eyes and New York cuts.  Sadly they are usually all red and when grill like chewing gum. Every time I go to Price Smart I sort through all of them and if I find any that are well marbled, it does happen, I buy them. I then age them in my meat drawer for a week at 40ºF.

The other cut that works well for grilling is also from Price Smart, they call it Ropa Vieja and you can of course us it for that but it is skirt steak which when grilled and slicked diagonally cross the grain works great for frajitas or as aha I grew up calling London Broil.

It is clear that some of the other slabs of beef sold here can be used for grilling, they question is finding out what lies inside the slab and being prepared to grind it for hamburger or stew it to death if there is no marbling.