Bocas del Toro | Boquete Panama Guide

May day in Panama

May 2, 2011 by Lee 2 Comments

When I was a child I remember the Maypole and a party for Mayday. Later it became a communist thing and the US forgot about Mayday. It’s real roots were pre Communist, pre Christian, Pagan times. Mayday was a celebration of the coming of summer in Pagan Europe. The Catholic church, not miss an opportunity, took Mayday and turned it into a celebration of the Virgin Mary. Mayday is a fading holiday but in Panama it is a holiday and as all of us know holiday in Panamanian Spanish translates to fiesta in normal Spanish.

We spent Mayday in Rambala, near Chiriqui Grande about two hours from Boquete. Our day was on a very large ranch where they celebrated life, family and a few days without work. On Saturday they slaughtered a pig for a BBQ, on Sunday May Day, they slaughtered a cow.

If your view of beef is shrink wrapped in a Super market the photos of using a machete to butcher and cut beef might be unusual, but if you live on a ranch in Panama it is death and life for those who eat the fresh beef.

Butchering with a Machete

What was more amazing that the whacking of ribs was the us of a machete to do think slicing for the BBQ.

Our host, Sr. Mario, took the thin sliced beef and did the cooking over a wood fire.

Mario doing cooking

Although I have driven through Rambala many times on the route to Almirante and Isla Colon this was the first time I ever stopped. The terrain and view of the Caribbean was wonderful.

It is easy to forget how lucky we are to live in this compact land of some many differences and natural beauty.

Filed Under: Bocas del Toro, Featured, General Interest, Happenings, Travel in Panama

Unions in Bocas reach agreement with the government

July 12, 2010 by Lee 1 Comment

According to La Prensa the Government and the striking labor unions in Bocas del Toro have reached an agreement. If I understand it correctly the agreement is to allow for ninety days of negotiation about the labor oriented portions of the now infamous Ley Chorizo, the nine in one law that seems to have infuriated massive sectors of the population.

In my interpretation by agreeing to this negotiation on these issues the government has splintered opposition to the law. There are eight other elements and many people oppose other sections such as the granting of criminal immunity to on duty police and the dropping of requirements for environmental impact studies when it is deemed necessary for the public good.

Still for now things should return to normal in Bocas after cleanup and repairs except for the families of the dead and the seriously wounded.

According to La Prensa

“In this sense , it was reported that at least 18 workers have lost one or both eyes as a result of the use of shot by the police during the clashes.

It was also agreed the release of prisoners in Bocas del Toro , with the promise that would not be prosecuted or punished .

That pact also includes conducting a dialogue on the Charter of the region Ngäbe Bugle , establish a national banana policy , and addressing the high cost of living in Bocas del Toro. ”

Only time and negotiations will tell the final outcome.

Filed Under: Bocas del Toro, Government, Travel in Panama Tagged With: CHorizo law Panama, panama

US Embassy Warning about Travel to Bocas

July 11, 2010 by Lee Leave a Comment

Date: July 10, 2010

To: U.S. Embassy Warden System

Subject: Protests in Changuinola, Bocas del Toro Province, July 10, 2010

Dear Wardens: Please disseminate this message to U.S. citizens in your area. Thank you.

The U.S. Embassy in Panama City alerts U.S. citizens that large-scale protests in Changuinola, Bocas del Toro Province, continue and have become violent in some instances. According to information we have received, protesters have blocked the roads in and out of Changuinola. At this time commercial flights from the airport in Changuinola have suspended. Peace Corps volunteers in the city have been temporarily relocated from the area. U.S. citizens planning to travel to or from the Bocas region are strongly urged to monitor the local media and consider the impact of the current disturbances on the availability of transportation and accommodation.

These protests may last for several days. U.S. citizens are encouraged to follow developments via the media as there are currently indications that protests may continue and a general strike may happen. U.S. citizens in Bocas del Toro are urged to exercise heightened security awareness and to avoid the Changuinola area. U.S. citizens already in Changuinola or in any other area where there are demonstrations should exercise extreme caution, keep a low profile, and avoid crowds, public demonstrations and other civil disturbances.

For the latest security information, Americans traveling abroad should regularly monitor the Department’s Internet web site at http://travel.state.gov where the current Travel Warnings and Public Announcements, including the Worldwide Caution Public Announcement, can be found.
Up-to-date information on safety and security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the U.S., or for callers outside the U.S. and Canada, a regular toll-line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).

For updated information on the security situation in Panama, please contact the American Citizens Services Unit of the U.S. Embassy at 207-7030. The Consular Section of the U.S. Embassy is located in Clayton, Building 783, in the Clayton section of Panama. The Consular Section fax is 207-7303. The Embassy web site is http://panama.usembassy.gov/ and e-mails should be addressed to Panama-ACS@state.gov. After hours and emergency phone number: 207-7000 or 207-7200.

Filed Under: Bocas del Toro, Travel in Panama

Travel to Bocas de Toro

July 10, 2010 by Lee Leave a Comment

This would be a bad time to travel to Bocas de Toro. I am sure you have seen the news in other publications, but if not, the area from Almirante to Changinola and the town of Changinola are currently the scene of militant protests. The Banana unions are protesting the new Chorizo Law that effects their ability to survive as unions. The law covers nine major areas upsetting many other people in the country.

If I understood the history and the politics of Bananas better I would amplify on the reasons but hopefully others will add some comments.

Until things settle down I would recommend avoiding the entire Bocas mainland. The only safe way to go to Isla Colon now would be by air.

Filed Under: Bocas del Toro, Government, Travel in Panama Tagged With: Bocas del Toro Panama

Isla Colon, Bocas Del Toro, Panama Revisited, again

February 20, 2010 by Lee 4 Comments

School in Panama begins on March 9th, My friend Myra is a Professora, a teacher and her vacation is coming to its end. We decided to do a fast trip from Boquete Panama to Bocas del Toro, to Isla Colon, the most populated of the islands commonly called Bocas del Toro. We were joined by some other friends, Dan and Deborah, escapees from Valle Escondido.

We drove and briefly said they are continuing to repair the road between Gulaca and Chiriqui Grande, several new bridges are going into span the washed out road bed. When done it will be a vast improvement, for now the construction coupled with the dense fog that we encountered makes the ride slow and perilous. With flights having resumed from David direct to Isla Colon I would really recommend flying.

After parking the car we headed for the BMT, Bocas Marine Transport and took a water taxi to the island. I noticed a rather dramatic change, radios in the boats, new tops and enforced mandatory use of life jackets.

Myra and I stayed at the Hotelito del Mar, dead center in town. I have been there before and nothing has changed. If is perfectly located if you want to be in the center of what has become tourist town Bocas del Toro.The Hotelito was full so Dan and Deborah ended up about 10 minute walk out of town at the Angela Hotel. If I were to rate the Hotelito del Mar a 6/10 the Hotel Angela might make it to 4/10. Their room included three beds with a shower in the same room, non functional AC. Despite to offer of a free breakfast posted in the room, they discovered the hard way there was no such thing as a free breakfast in the Hotel Angela.

After settling in, we started a Bocas pub crawl in pursuit in eventual pursuit of dinner. We started at the Buena Vista for some happy hours Pina Coladas, they were very nice at $2.50 except they appeared to be missing the rum. After a round and some fried calamari we moved down to the Reef at the other end of the street. Rum was $1.50, six chicken wings for $6. The wings were really six, half wings. I requested the check and noticed the rum was billed at $2 each. this brought back a memory, they did this last time I was there also, that time for food. I need urge caution if you value your wallet t the Reef.

My reason for this line of commentary is the sum up that Isla Colon has become a tourist trap; unless you know where to go.

Deborah suggested heading off the beaten path and with a phone call to my friend Helena from Garden of Eden we were directed past the Reef, around the bend to the Ultimo Refugio. We actually missed the entrance until a man on the street asked if we were looking for the restaurant.

The wait was long but discovering the new drinks being offered at bar folded time and eventually a table cleared. The inside was charming, busy and fun. There were no tables but we were offered bar, drinks and the next opening. The white board menu was short and the theme fresh and fish.

Dinner was served well and in a reasonable time. Dinner was very good, the venue and service excellent and in all the experience great.

On Isla Colon head of the tourist path. More of that tomorrow in a day of walking, exploring and searching for another dinner worth eating.

Filed Under: Bocas Del Toro, Bocas del Toro, Bocas del Toro, Lodging, Restaurants, Travel in Panama Tagged With: Bocas del Toro Panama, Isla Colon Panama

Boquete to Bocas Del Toro Panama

December 19, 2009 by Lee 5 Comments

In November 2008 storms cut the road to Bocas del Toro from Chiriqui Panama. The government did some hasty repairs and I believed that one more good storm might destroy the road permanently. I have a photo of the road last year, compare it to the one at the end of the post.

With that in mind I decided to fly from David to Bocas del Toro, I was surprised to learn all such flights have been terminated so they can work on the airport on Isla Colon. You can now only fly into the tourist haven of Bocas del Toro from either Panama City or San Jose Costa Rica. The hotels in Bocas are hurting and there are deals to be found.

We choose to drive rather than miss the chance to relax after a hectic week. The caribbean side of Panama is so removed from reality that it makes Boquete seem hectic. I have a friend in Panama City who said that if the world ended tomorrow it would take a week for anyone in Boquete to notice. If that is so it would take another week for anyone in Bocas del Toro to care.

My favorite place to stay in Bocas del Toro is the Garden of Eden, a small private island with three rental cabins and great food. Even more removed from what ever hustle is happening on Isla Colon.

The island is 10 minutes from Bocas Town on Isla Colon and it is easy to go back and forth if you wish, I don’t. We choose to stay in one place enjoy the great company of our hosts Bob and Helena and their great staff Callie and Magali.

The road trip to Almirante required some time to relax. Driving to Almirante was a chore, bad roads and thick fog for a significant part of the trip through the mountains. More minor delays caused by construction; lot’s of road construction. It was only when we returned with clear skies that we could see that massive, real improvements are being made to the road. A real effort to increase the probability that the only road from the Pacific to the Caribbean this side of Panama City will remain open.

Filed Under: Bocas Del Toro, Bocas del Toro, Lodging, Travel in Panama Tagged With: Bocas del Toro Panama, boquete panama

Eat an apple in the Garden of Eden Bocas del Toro Panama

July 23, 2009 by Lee 5 Comments

When we travel from Boquete to Bocas del Toro Panama it is usually for a couple of days. If we fly we are tied to the three flight a week schedule to David, if we drive the distance is long enough to justify at least two nights. Often we take a place on Isla Colon and have the noisy, tourist experience. This time we decided to treat ourselves and visit the Garden of Eden, it was well named.

I was fortunate enough to meet Bob and Helena before the Garden of Eden was opened and wrote about it in both 2006 and 2007, it was time to return. It has been said three times is a charm, in this case the expression was accurate. I took Heather, my daughter Gumby and her friend Rae and we had a relaxed few days. The experience was a fusion of busy island culture for Gumby and Rae and quality down time for Heather and I.

The Garden of Eden received it’s name from the Water Apple tree on the small one acre island. Guests have added several rubber serpents into the well tended tropical landscaping which ads flavor to the relaxed charm of the location.

To get to the Hotel from Bocas town you just go to Janpan at the dock and they will take you there for a pre arranged $10 charge for two people, $5 for each additional. The boat ride takes about 10 minutes and upon arrival at the doc you can experience the fantasy Island welcome at the dock.

Rooms are lovely, well decorated and have doors facing both the sea and the pool.

Gumby quickly found the hammock on her deck.

From this point you can see the pet Pargo waiting to be fed and Indian Cauyocas plying the paths between islands. Gumby and Rae quickly discovered excellent snorkeling from the island and a pampered baby Tucan, Woody, saved from starvation.

On our first full day Gumby and Rae decided to go explore Ilsa Colon, Heather and I stayed and enjoyed the calm difference between tourist noise and pure relaxation. Most of our day was spent reading in hammocks and eating. Did I mention the food? Not yet because it demands it’s own post.

Garden of Eden has a web page of their own and some rather extraordinary comments on Trip Adviser.com when they received a travellers choice award for 2009.

Later the food, because in my opinion they have the the best in Bocas del Toro.

Filed Under: Bocas Del Toro, Bocas del Toro, Lodging, Travel in Panama Tagged With: Bocas del Toro Panama, boquete panama, Garden of Eden

The Road to Almirante

July 22, 2009 by Lee 4 Comments

I have driven from Boquete to Almirante several times. Almirante Panama is not a destination, it is a potential made and lost by United Fruit Company. The historic equivalent of a rust belt city gone to ruin, except it is a banana town gone the same way. Almirante was almost lost to Costa Rica during an invasion in 1921, the cost of lost production to United Fruit was high enough that they managed to get the US involved and the banana war resolved. Now Almirante is a poor town with a polluted harbor and great potential.

Almirante sits on the Caribbean coast 20 minutes by launch from Bocas del Toro, Panama’s second busiest tourist location. To get from Boquete to Almirante takes about 3.5 hours. The road trip is a great opportunity to see some of rural Panama, the continental divide and dramatic transitions of a coast to coat trip in a few hours.

The crow flying distance from Boquete to Bocas del Toro is about 60 KM, the road trip to Almirante is about 180KM looping down to Caldera, where you can follow some cattle down the road like we did.

Then see a furrier shoeing horses in the street in Gualaca.

The road starts to get a bit unstable after Gulaca showing damage from last years flooding. I suspect it will wash out again in 2009 since the repairs made were little more than dumping earth and stone into the gaps torn by raging waters.

This is not a road to travel at night or at any great speed. There are axel breaking pot holes, single lane areas and slide potentials. When approach Chiriqui Grande you will come to a real road side attraction a gas station and typico restaurant. Fried chicken for the road and you have only 68 kilometers left on a coastal run to Almirante.

You can buy some Bananas, these cost $2.

Look at some magnificent views of the Caribbean and finally arrive and park your car. The water taxis are right next to the secure parking facilities and for $4 you change from car to boat and leave Almirante behind, before you even explore what it is and wonder about what it was.

Filed Under: Bocas del Toro, Travel in Panama Tagged With: Almirante Panama, Bocas del Toro Panama, Boquete, boquete panama

Isla Colon, Bocas del Toro

September 22, 2008 by Lee 1 Comment

I have made the trip from Boquete to Bocas del Toro several times in the past. This time was different in a couple of ways. I went with people who know the island and for the first time in over a year I drove.

Allow me to suggest flying. The road trip is about 4 hours and the road from Gulaca to Chiriqui Grande is in rapid deterioration. There are some huge “speed bumps” due to settling of the tarmac. If you drive please be really careful or you may lose a front axel.

This weekend we visited not only two beaches, one wonderful and the other adjacent to the Isla Colon International Fair. Yes it was fair weekend in Bocas del Toro. If you ever get the wild urge to go there for the fair thinking it might be better, bigger or even different than those in David or Boquete, save your plane fare. It was a great disappointment. Very small, sparse and nothing like either David or Boquete.

I will however attest that I was introduced to some Caribbean culture for the first time in Bocas del Toro and it has a different flavor than the Pacific side of the country.

I stayed a very nice small hotel located right near the water taxi and the Police building.

The Hotelito del Mar is only a few rooms, that cost from $55 up depending upon the number of beds in the room. The staff was wonderful, the rooms clean and there was never a shortage of hot water. There was also no problem asking for and receiving the jubilado descount. I recommend the Hotelito del Mar if you want a spot literally right in the center of town. They also have free wifi, a plus for the laptop addicted set like me and a continental breakfast if you are also like me addicted to food.

We ate in several places the one worth mention was the Reef. It is on the far end of the town near the ferry dock and I have eaten there many times. The food is good, the service is bad, no make that awful and the prices are high. I was surprised when my check came and although I expected to have a 10% propina (tip) snuck in already I was surprised that the price of a fried fish went from an already high $9 on the menu to a higher $10 while it was being eaten. The fish was excellent but the price increase was hard to digest. Using my improving Spanish I complained and remarkably the bill was rewritten by the same scowling waitress who served lunch but never considered bring a menu. Welcome to Bocas del Toro where every tourist even a native born visitor is a target.

The beaches were fun. There was a large police presence in all the tourist areas with police coming from Panama city to help out during the fair. We took a launch to a small island off Isla Colon for a quite beach and I was surprised that a two man police patrol was walking the beaches there also, Panama is really trying to protect it?s tourists from the thieves who do not have licensed businesses!

Some more Photos

Filed Under: Bocas Del Toro, Bocas del Toro, Bocas del Toro, Lodging, Restaurants Tagged With: Bocas del Toro Panama, Isla Colon Panama

La Fortuna Power Plant

September 21, 2008 by Lee 6 Comments

Living in Boquete Panama I have been exposed to talk about La Fortuna power plant. I have driven over two dams called La Fortuna, one in route to Almirante the other near Gulaca but I have never seen turbines or spillways or electric lines leading away form those bridges. Being a former Arizonan I am accustomed to the massive infrastructure at Boulder Dam on the Arizona Nevada border. La Fortuna does not appear to have any of that.

This time as I was driving from Almirante I stopped at the dam and visitors center and discovered the difference. The dam does hold a reservoir but unlike hydroelectric plants I have seen before the generators are not in the dam but in an underground tunnel down hill from the dam.

I make no claim to know anything about this technology and whether it is better, worse or for a different environment than some of raging rivers of North America. I did take a few photos of the reservoir and a model of the total infrastructure in the visitors center.

I f any reader can shed light on this design please do.