From survivor to five stars, Isla Palenque, what a difference in two years

In June of 2011 Mayra and I visited Isla Palanque. At that time in a post, I described the vision of the developer and called it “survivor for the jet set”. We were invited to return this past weekend to see the changes made in two years. I am pleased to say Isla Palanque is still almost all a nature preserve as promised but the signs of the planned community are taking form.

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We stayed in what I will describe as a five star hotelet, six rooms.  It will be someone’s home after the first real hotel is built on the Isla Palenque. We had the opportunity to take a hike down one of the beaches and into the rain forest. We enjoyed some of the most innovative food I have eaten in all of Panama and on Saturday we took a tour with the project designer and manager who is living onsite.

Getting to Isla Palenque required a drive to Boca Chica and a thirty minute boat ride to a new pier.

Forget Fantasy Island

Forget Fantasy Island

We were greeted in a style reminiscent of Ricardo Montalban, except we were met by two gracious ladies both too young to remember Fantasy Island. They were from the staff of what turned out to be the nicest little house on the island.

Our welcome cocktails

Our welcome cocktails

After a weekend there I decided to take three days to share our experience. Today just a bit about the accommodations because they represent the quality of design and innovation. The current hotel is based on a design for a six bedroom house. It is a design I have never seen before. Each bedroom is part of a two level stack, each stack independent, floating above the ground with connections to the salon and outdoors. The salon has an infinity pool and view of the ocean. Each unit has air-conditioning, two or three different showers, a bathtub for two. The water is solar heated and the interiors true apartments themselves. I originally thought each bedroom suit was a free standing cabin minus a kitchen, but not to be, each is a bedroom.

Isla Palenque

Isla Palenque bathroom

Bathrooms are not usually photogenic but this one has a shower wall. a bathtub built for two and behind those doors an outdoor shower that is open to the sky and closed to prying eyes. It was great fun. The toilet has it’s own room.

Isla Palenque bedroom suiteThe suit has a king sized bed, living area and opens to a view of the ocean and a floating terrace. I spent most of my time on the terrace staring at the sea. There is no cable, in fact there is no television, who needs it. They do have Internet and provide an Ipad in each bedroom.

Isla Palenque  beach view from hotel

Isla Palenque beach view from hotel

Isla Palenque

Kayaking

The image below is the hotel from the beach. The Joron is the restaurant. The roof in the center the salon and entrance to the home.

Isla Palenque Hotelito from the beach

Isla Palenque Hotelito from the beach

Mayra suffering

Mayra suffering

Isla Palenque wants you, local residents to have our experience so they are providing a nice deal to fill short term vacancies. Tomorrow more, Food Pornography, the naked truth about great food.

VECINO5 discount rate
The special unpublished package rate applies to stays of 2 nights or more between 11-19 May and includes:

> Jungle Room accommodations
> All meals
> 1 Island Tour per room-night, based on tours offered per our regular schedule
> Transport to/from Boca Chica

The price per room, per night for this package is $195 (value: $540/night; save over 60%). All our rooms are double occupancy but one of our Jungle Rooms can accommodate a third person; to add a third person to this room would cost $95.

All that’s needed to take advantage of this rate is to input the rate code VECINO5 when booking. Please be advised that this is a “last minute” offer, meaning it can only be redeemed 7 days before arrival and is subject to our availability. Also, this rate is strictly “word of mouth”, meaning it cannot be published online, but you are welcome to email it to anyone you think would be interested.

This is the LINK to their website form more information.

 


The road to Pedasi and a taste of reality

After hearing about the excitement and the growth down the Azuero Peninsula I wanted to see it with my own eyes, not those of the people selling or trying to sell sand castles. Mayra and I visited two years ago when I was writing for Live and Invest in Panama, this was a return to relax and see all the changes.

The new four lane highway from Divisa to Las Tablas is moving along and the ride down the peninsula is much faster than before. One massive credit to the current government is that the investment in infrastructure will at least in theory propel growth, it is certainly enticing private investment.

We passed through Chitre, Los Santos to Las Tablas on new and improved highways. There are an extraordinary number of new businesses and developments in the Chitre region. I always liked Chitre as a very traditional Panamanian town, like much of Panama it has a new flavor; the flavor of investment and growth.

Mayra and I arrived in Pedasi near sundown, about five and one half hours from David. We did run into one half hearted Indigenous road obstruction on the road between Tole and Santiago. There were fewer then ten people there and more than that number of riot police waiting down the road. We and all the traffic passed through unmolested.

We stayed with some good friends who have a small secluded  B&B about 30 minutes west of Pedasi near Playa Venao. I do recommend staying there it if you wish to make the trip and want to be close to both the surf camps and the pueblo. Goeff and Caroline are former Boquete residents now living the beach life. This is a link to their website, LINK.

This the view from their back porch, it is not a golf course but could be a putting green.

Playa Lifestyle Pedasi Panama

Playa Lifestyle Pedasi Panama

On Saturday we spent the day following up on our prior trip two years ago. On that trip we met with some of the developers of beach front property who arrived from Israel to turn the sea coast into lot line to lot line developments. The number of houses in each development has doubled in two years. Then you could count them on one hand, now after two years you need two hands.

Beach front development in Pedasi Panama

Beach front development in Pedasi Panama

It seems every pasture near Pedasi is either for sale or has been sold to a developer. All that is missing are the buyers of the lots they created. Pedasi has a new hospital under construction and an airport completed in December 2011 that  has just opened. We visited the airport and took a walk onto the runway because only us, some cows and a wind sock were there. There are currently no flights scheduled into Pedasi. My political corruption curiosity wondered who might have been the prior owner of the pasture which is now an airport with no staff, fuel facility or parking.

Pedasi Panama Airport terminal shot form the runway

Pedasi Panama Airport terminal shot from the runway

Like so many stories in Panama I think the pitch on Pedasi is a speculation on the future. The beaches near Pedasi are fantastic, some literally deserted, tourists do come, surfers love Playa Venano and fisherman love the waters off the coast.  I asked  who is buying in Pedasi and heard interesting things, the most sales in the area are coming as Panama’s middle class is investing in vacation houses in the beach area, houses selling for a bit over $100,000. It is really refreshing to see that the economy of Panama is allowing Panamanians to make the same mistakes that were made in North America a decade ago. I was told that the beach properties are selling slowly and are often back on the market rapidly as people discover there is nothing to do in Pedasi beyond surfing and fishing. The beaches have not flooded since the projects started but local memories go back further than the developments.

There is a demand for rentals, as in Boquete, that might make for some good long term investment. Despite frequent failures of urbanizations there is little doubt in my mind that this area will eventually develop into the French Rivera of Panama. The only question is will either I or my children live to see it; perhaps my grandchildren.

Beach near Pedasi Panama

Beach near Pedasi Panama

The local restaurants on the beaches like Playa Arena are still affordable and great fun. You can buy lunch for four with a few rounds of beer for under $35, I did.
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Pedasi is a beautiful, remote place to visit and spend a few days on the beaches. Enjoy it while you can because like all things in Panama the times they are a changing and the things that made Panama attractive to many are evolving into the things some of us fled.


Caribbean Tobacco in Bugaba Panama

If smoke cigars or not, I suggest you visit the Caribbean Tobacco Company in Bugaba Panama. You will be treated to a tour that takes you from the piles of tobacco, all grown in Chiriqui, through the process of rolling and finishing a cigar.

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If you go to the Tuesday market you have probably seen Dave selling cigars. You might not realize he is the manager of the local facility that makes the cigars. Caribbean tobacco in Concepcion, Bugaba is located on the highway to Volcan.

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They have been the resurrection of the local tobacco industry. Condemn smoking if you wish but tobacco was once a major cash crop for the farm in Chiriqui. Mayra who went with me for our visit was fast to notice the tobacco plants in from of the facility. She recognized them because her father was a tobacco grower in the past.

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Now there is a new market for tobacco in Chiriqui, cigars. All the tobacco in cigars produced in Bugaba is grown in Chiriqui, except for the outer leaf wrappers, they come from Nicaragua.

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Mayra with a wrapper leaf below. Our tour guide with a pile of filler above.

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Rolling cigars is an art. The gentleman below has been making cigars for fifteen years. Not that his hand is literally a blur. He explained by rolls five hundred cigars in one day. I have video links below of him doing slow rolling for us to see.

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If you are wondering what he is using to glue the leaf together, I wondered, it is a potato starch glue.

Cigars and not just for men, women who smoke cigars are very erotic. Look for cigars from Panama and support your local farmers.

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A New Year a new adventure and a fresh perspective

Last night as the fireworks boomed over Bajo Boquete we were at the house of a friend who loaded his suitcase and took a walk out of the house, a traditional Panamanian way of wishing for a trip in 2013. Starting at the early hours  tomorrow we are taking a trip. Two couples from Boquete beginning a four week exploration of a small slice of Argentina and Chile.

David Panama Bus Terminal

David Panama Bus Terminal

We need to leave Boquete at a ridiculous hour in the morning to catch a ride to David,  a bus to the capital and then a van to the Tocumen airport to board a red eye to Buenos Aires. One of the challenges or advantages of living in our sky island is that it is remote to the world, unless you consider David the world.

Today, Jan 1, is an awful day to travel from anyplace back to Panama City. All the holiday revelers are heading back to work tomorrow and the buses, plans and highways will be full. We waited one day in hopes the only traffic insanity will be the trip from the bus terminal the international airport. That ride within the city will cost about the same as the trip from David to Panama City. There is a Metro bus that goes from Albrook Bus terminal to the the entrance of the airport but it does not enter. I suspect if the Ministry of tourism did actually deliver the once promised shuttle bus from Albrook to Tocumen, the taxi drivers who overcharge tourists and locals alike would blockade the airport. That is an element of certainty in Panama where laws are made and changed on the streets.

We will be flying on a Copa Airlines red eye. If Copa has not changed, it will be a great flight. Copa is Panama’s Airline and Panama City is the hub, that allows for an increasing number of nonstop flights throughout the Americas, including Argentina. Copa Airlines is also a profitable publicly  traded (CPA – NYSE) business.

Copa Airlines has gained market share in part because it is easy for passengers to fly into Panama City and change planes without having a Visa or passing through customs. Panama is a great hub for passengers as well as legal and illicit substances in transit. The illicit part vexes the United States. The Panama City hub evolved because Latin American’s need to get a Visa from the US to fly into a US airport, even if the reason for their trip is to transfer to another flight leaving the US; not so in Panama City.

Visa policy is adding to the cost of our trip. Argentina does not require visas for  US, Canadian or Australian Passport holders, but does require a reciprocity fee, currently $160. You need to pay the fee online before leaving for Argentina, here is  a link if you are planning a trip. Mayra who will use her Panama Passport needs neither Visa nor fee. A Panamanian Passport is a good passport to have unless you are heading to the US or Canada. This is a link to a list of countries that do not require a Visa if you have a passport form Panama.

Too many in the United States have a vision of Latin Americans as poor, unwashed, uneducated masses trying to assault the the southern borders. Latin America is a large market place with a growing economy, a growing educated middle class and increasing opportunity, the poverty part exists everyplace. Xenophobia prevents many in the US from seeing beyond their borders. Other countries are either poor, Socialist, Communist or worse some combination of the above, all eager to take all that Americans own; even those beaver loving Canadians are too socialist.

We will be visiting two countries I have visited before, Argentina and Chile. Argentina is going through still another in what seems to be an endless series of economic crises and Chile is booming. I have observations of my last trip in made in 2008 in this blog. This trip will allow for an interesting contrast. My understanding of Panama and  Spanish have improved so I hope to contrast my experience of four years ago. It should be fun and maybe even insightful for me.


Left at the curb in the Port of Colon

Departing was such sweet sorrow. After three days and two nights without cooking or cleaning I was not ready to leave the Grandeur of the Seas. However it was for the best, gluttony is a pleasurable vice, but gluttony is too easy on a cruise ship and was adding to my waistline. I also confess to sloth like behavior, eating, drinking, dancing, drinking, eating, oh my. The unofficial computation is one pound per day of weight gain on a cruise.

We abandoned ship at about 9:30am with bursting bellies and an ache in my heart. I knew we were to face suitcases, boxes, carryon luggage and a long ride back to Boquete. Some people like this repositioning cruise for food and entertainment, others like Panamanian Customs in Colon. The only inspection was done by a dog and the K9 did earn his keep. The drug sniffing dog did discover contraband on a wheelchair riding, gray haired lady in front of us. The dog sniffed out a bran muffin and the customs agent confiscated the offending item. Remember drug sniffing dogs like bran muffins too.

Loose inspection allows people to bring in busloads of stuff and they do, we did too. We were proactive for the return to Boquete. Mayra bought space for five people, five suitcases and five boxes on a bus from Jonathan Evatt of Inspired Earth Publishing, a Bocas resident who promoted his grief saving buses on Boquete Ning. It was a risk which turned out to be an error.

Jonathan had two undersized, underpowered twenty seat coaster buses. The first bus he rented to a small group with a ton of stuff, they paid him $600 for the service and expected to have the bus to themselves, they did not. The second bus had only twenty seats and another ton of stuff. At first Jonathan gave me hard time about our boxes. He conveniently forgot Mayra had paid for five people. Between the five of us we declared to him exactly what we had, five people, five suitcases and five boxes. Jonathan told me I needed to pay an extra $8 a box beyond two, I reluctantly agreed.

They started loading half a ton of suitcases on the roof of the little bus. Mayra said the little buses were never designed for that type of load on the roof. Then they realized there was not going to be room inside for all the paying passengers and the other half ton.

I volunteered to abandon the bus before people were asked to leave or the tires burst from the overloading. Jonathan agreed and then as we sought alternate transport he decided two of our group could squeeze into the overcrowded, overweight bus. He did finally agreed to refund our money, but since Mayra paid via Paypal he said he would only refund through Paypal. In retrospect I should have demanded the money then and there.

The Port of Colon does not allow taxis to enter for passenger pickup. They did however allow a van to come in and load five people, five suitcases and five boxes. We took the van through the increasing rain to the Bus Terminal in Panama City. In our path the rain turned into flooding and one of the roads into Panama City suffered a collapse killing two Red Cross workers, we managed to escape the tragedy. I feel for all those who lost families, friends and homes in the the disaster we were lucky, their losses makes ours look trivial.

Flooding in Colon Panama 26 Nov.

Photo Credit La Prensa

Arriving in Panama City we loaded ourselves and our stuff into a bus to David and had a comfortable seven hour ride through the rain. We met a couple from Bocas on the bus, they too had been left at the curb in Colon by Jonathan. They did demand a cash refund from him and did receive it,  there maybe more people out there.

We arrived in David at 8pm. People who were on Jonathan’s bus said they suffered a blown out tire along the road, overloading will do that. Arriving in Boquete they were abandoned at Super Mercado Ivan at 8PM and left to try to find taxis from there. Jonathan demanded each of them pay another $20 to compensate for the revenue he lost from us and the other couple who could not fit on the bus in Colon.

I am waiting for a refund from Jonathan. I have emailed him, no response, I have filed a dispute with Paypal, they have emailed him, no response. I will wait another few days for him to respond and then I will file a claim and hope Paypal makes good on the $210 he took from us and promised to refund. I am not sure how many more people were left at the curb as his buses left Colon. If any other readers paid him and were cheated I urge you to also contact Paypal and demand a refund.

It was a memorable end to a lovely week and another lesson about some of the expats who live in Panama. We made a mistake and trusted Jonathan, a mistake that will not be repeated by us.


Gone FIshing, again

When Rainelda postponed for the meeting this Tuesday my visiting son and friend decided they wanted to go fishing. Thanks to Capital Bob Schmucker, the new president of the BCP and first mate Frank we had the opportunity. Since Mayra’s daughter Karina just celebrated her birthday we decided what better birthday present for an inspector of boats than to get out on one for pleasure and drag in some fish.

the day was slightly overcast as we left Boca Chica and the water pretty calm. We trolled and soon saw some humpback calves cavorting and were joined by escort of porpoises.

Porpoises  bocas chica panama

Porpoises on the bow

Then the fun began, I think the porpoises drove the fish to us.

Big Eye Tuna on the hook

Marina with a big eye Tuna

Marina hauling in the first of three big eye Tuna’s. Her first catch and her first Tuna.

Dorado Boca chica panama

Karina with a Dorado

Karina hauled a Dorado and we ended up with three more to join it.

We also caught several Bonita, all but one returned to the sea. In all a great day. Karina being like all the locals I know said, wácala to the tuna. I am not sure if the word wácala is Spanish or just misspelt but it means, yuk.

For the rest if us the Tuna meant, sashimi as soon as we could find the wasabi, ginger, soy and sharp knife.

Sashimi from Boca chica


A Beaching Day

I am not a big beach fan but we were virtually kidnapped yesterday and dragged to a small secluded beach two hours form Boquete, about forty five minutes from  the Interamerican Highway at the Boca Chica turnoff. This is one of the nicest, closest beaches I have visited in this area. I call it private in error, all beaches in Panama are public property, but to get to this beach you either access it by boat, free, or by car $1.50 a person; it was well worth the $1.50.

This is Panama for the locals, not the tourists and worth discovering before someone buys the land, pass the road  and builds a condo tower.

Gavilla Beach Chiriqui Panama

We rented  a large thatched joron, a ramada,  for a $35 and set up the barbie. The unstated objective my by captors was to tie my son Nicholas and I to hammocks and force us to relax. The objective was achieved with out rope. The ocean was warmer than the air temperature, we had shade, lunch, lots of cold beer which we had brought and no cell service, no interruptions, no internet in fact no electricity.

As the day progressed Karina and Caesar went out in a boat with the manager Francisco and pulled lobsters out of a trap. Those that were too small for commercial use need up on the BBQ and each made a one bite snack. The others were taken to the kitchen. If you wish you can buy your lobsters live and cook them yourself or let have them cooked for you. We had planned on neither but the day progressed and we lingered, it was too relaxing to leave early.

As Nicholas and I read, the others took a boat ride the lobsters found their way through the kitchen onto plates. Dinner which was the end to a wonderful day . Options were Pargo, Red Snapper,  dragged out of the ocean that day and fried whole or lobster broiled with patacones.  Entry $1.50 a person, Ramada $35 for the day, Lobster dinner $8 and the entire day , not priceless but dirt cheap. What a wonderful discovery only two hours from Jaramillo.

If you want to go call Estefan the owner  and ask if the roads are open and lobsters available, his number is 6428-3376  or just go.  to get their drive to David and heard toward Panama City. Turn at the Horcincito turn off and head on the new road to Boca Chica. Before you get to Boca Chica you will see an intersection full of signs at a left turn. One sign is for Gavila Beach. Just follow the signs, the road goes from paved to good dirt to bad dirt, but a car can make it when it’s dry. If it is raining, don’t bother.

Some photos:

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Alive and Wazing

Despite my lack of posting for some time I am alive. The internet at my house was down since Sunday and only because my son Nicholas is here did we even have the illusion of Internet. The storms of last weekend did in the normal radio network. Nicholas discovered his iPad running IOS 6 would allow us to tether and use his Mas Movil data connection. It was great until the storms of yesterday; I think Mas Movil took a hit and that option vanished. Today all is back to normal, for now.

I want to share some great technology, new to me, perhaps not to you. If you recall the adventures of Smokey and the Bandit, you can say 10-4 again. Those days of using CB radios to communicate with other drivers, identify where the police were hiding and even meet up for a coffee on a road trip vanished some time in the past. Now it’s all back and works in Panama too.

My friend Richard turned me on the WAZE it is software for the iPhone, iPad and Android devices that have a GPS and cellular data connection. WAZE provides an interactive view of driving anyplace there are others using WAZE. To my surprise there are enough others using WAZE in Chiriqui to allow a pretty good snapshot of accidents and Smokey Bear in the Bushes, police  along the road.

You can find out more about WAZE at http://www.waze.com/ it is free but does require you have either an iPhone, iPad or android device with both a GPS and data connection. If you have it all you too can find the bear in the bushes and let the other WAZERs know.


Panama 101 – Getting to Boquete

I thought I would share this seven slide show for new tourists to Boquete. My son did this a year ago to help is girl friend make it from the airport to Boquete.


Flip Flopping

Nope, not about gay marriage nor other political issues, just the my latest drive back from David to Boquete. For those who are not here I am post three videos of the trip from David to Alto Boquete. You can see the progress using the new road flip flopping from one to four lanes and from one side to the other depending upon the state of construction. Much is almost completed, but not everything.

It is clear that once done the trip between Boquete and David will be a better, safer, faster experience.