Posted by editor on March 9, 2010
I live in Boquete Panama and I have been often quoted as hating the cuisine of Panama. Mayra challenged that notion telling me that until I eat home cooked Panamanian food, I have to right to make the statement, she was right.
Guandu is a little green bean very popular in Panama, in English it is often called Pigeon Pea and this creative dish is both filling and nutritious. According to Raintree Nutrition Guandu is a medicinal herb, according to me, it is good eats.
credit for the photo above is to Panamacanalcountry.com
Guandu is often used with rice and you can find bags of guandu peas being sold in most local market places and few super markets when it is in season. Mayra went to the source to pick the beans from a bush growing in Boquete and proceeded to prepare this rather tasty family style dish I have never seen on a restaurant menu.
Recipe
Guacho de guandu con pollo y chorizos ahumados
For 4 People
Ingredients
1/2 pound rice
1 pound of guandu beans
3 smoked chorizos cut into one inch pieces
1 1/4 pounds of chicken (wings are best)
salt, onion, green pepper, cilantro, curry, black pepper
Procedure
Add a tablespoon of cooking oil to a heavy sauce pan and sauté guandu for about 30 minutes over low heat.
Then add 2 cups of water or chicken stock to the guandu. Bring to a bill and cook over low heat for another 15 minutes until the beans are soft.
Add the vegetables, chicken pieces and chorizos.
Bring to a boil, move to low heat and cover. Check and add more water to stock until the rice and chicken are done.
Serve in a bowl and enjoy. I like this dish with a little more spice so picante is a once addition.
The Guacho de guandu con pollo y chorizos ahumados was a treat. I think I will hold my tongue on comments about the food of Panama until I eat more of what is cooked in the homes and less of the restaurants.
So I am not a gourmet, but I do enjoy good food especially when it is new and different and I neither cook it nor need to wash the dishes!
Posted by editor on March 7, 2010
My Saturday in Boquete Panama started with fresh eggs stolen from under the beak of a hostile, over protective rooster. Mayara came to visit after a week of work in David and we embarked on a series of what she describes as actividades, activities.
Our first port of call was a reunion, a meeting with abundant food of the staff, owners and contributors of the Bajareque Times. The Bajareque Times is Boquete’s own good news, paper. The Bajareque Times makes no pretense of competing with La Prensa or other Panama periodicals, it tries to provide local bilingual coverage of what is relevant to people in Boquete, David and other areas of Chiriqui. We were invited because I have written a couple of recent articles and Mayara is going to start writing a column.
The get together was at El Pomodoro and as always the atmosphere on the terrazzo was excellent, the food mediocre and in this case the collection of people wonderful. I found myself learning as always and actually sitting at a table and discussing Boquete in Spanish. I think my language skills must be improving, I need more words. Thanks to Ted, Louis and Elizabeth for the invite.
From the El Pomodoro Mayara and I migrated to the ROCK, a new restaurant, not for dinner, but for Syliva, the latest production of the Chiriqui Players. I was concerned since Mayara does not speak a word of English. I had told her a friend, Pam Pankratz was going to play a dog and she did not want to miss the event. Pam, you were great right down to bitting your leg to deal with those nasty fleas; bravo. Pam your body language jumped the barrier of spoken words.
Since Jim Hatch arrived in Boquete the quality of theater has jumped from High School to near professional. What was astounding to me were the individual performances. Narin Kennedy in her first effort on stage was amazing. Narin if I did not know you better I would think you were type cast, but I knyou are not a dog hating school teacher type. You demonstrated great skill in a great role. The same for Tom Werder who was also in his first role. As a person who has never dared to be on stage I salute all of you, the copious support staff that made this possible and direction behind it all.
If you missed Sylvia you have another chance, it will be performed for one more week, Tickets are available at Mail Box Etc and if you enjoy laughing, you will enjoy Sylvia. Next Thursday, Friday and Saturday are the last performances March11,12, 13th 8pm. Bring a cushion for your seat, the chairs are brutal. It is a shame the BCP facility built and paid for by the very people who attended and created this play could not be used for the production. The BCP theater has better seats and more of them.
When Sylvia ended and most intelligent people headed home for the evening, Mayara and I headed out dancing. I really think we need to organize a field trip to Coca Cola in Los Naranjos. This time we arrived about 10:30 and Coca Cola was filling quickly. By one AM when we left, it was crowded with people of all ages, partying and dancing. We enjoy this clubbing, cost is trivial, a $10 bill covered the entire evening and it is a great cultural immersion.
Posted by editor on March 5, 2010
I always wondered how anyone could buy blah blah blah for idiots, but now I will in a thousand words or less try to answer the proverbial “will my cell phone work in Panama” question.
First and most dramatic understand Panama has four, cell phone companies, 3 totally private sector, one with a minority interest held by the government, often a bad omen, Cable and Wireless, often referred to as Clueless and Worthless. I use Cable and Wireless because although some view them as worthless, they work best where I live and have unlimited data for my iphone for $14.95 a month. Still another, issue, coverage is not complete for any cell company, they have different generations of technology and different rural coverage, each has a coverage map. The maps range from accurate, to Seco induced fantasies of commercial artists, who likely have never been out of Casco Viejo.
If you visit Panama consider this, Panama has more cell phones than people. There is a reason, Panamanians have mastered the art of using cellphones for free. In Panama anyone can buy a cell phone on virtually every street in every pueblo in the country. Contrast that to Costa Rica, something often done buy people visiting from North America, where you must be a permanent resident and deal with bumbling government employees of ICE, a cold group, who may or may not have a SIM chip to spare.
How do you use a cell phone for free. To really go native, learn the secret and be a one step closer to assimilation. In Panama you are only billed for outgoing calls. Lacking the creativity of North American banditry, Panamanian cell phone companies only earn half the coin per call. So, the correct way to use a cell phone in Panama is ring once and hangup, disconnect, cut the cord baby. If the person receiving your plea cares to speak to you they will call back and they pay the bill, if not, well they were not ever worth knowing anyway.
Back to the next point, reached in an obscure way, routed through San Jose. All cell phones in Panama are GSM Network phones meaning they use a chip. If you have a cell phone from another part of the world and do not know about chips, it probably will not work here. It might work here if it has a chip and you don’t realize it has a chip, but if it is chip-less, forgetaboutit.
If you live in the US then you can follow this link to see if your cell phone carrier is GSM and what frequency they use. The big boys, use GSM 1900 in the US. If you come from the land of sled dogs and frozen beaver tails, you really need to be in Panama with all your ex-neighbors, check here. If you think communicating in English to a Spanish speaker is difficult, try communicating with a GSM 850 phone to a GSM 1900 phone, it does not work. Some phones, triband or quad band can morph as necessary and will work on both and one or two more. These phones also known as world phones have great value and can be used to barter for bus fare to Costa Rica, where they probably won’t work.
If your cell phone is not a triband or quadband you might have hope in Panama. Cable and Wireless and their worthy competitor Movistar use GSM 850 but the upstarts trying to steal their client base, Digicel the Claro, not to be confused with Carlos Slim, who just owns Claro, an almost cute anagram, but is not Claro, use GSM 1900. So if you have a cell phone that has a chip and can use either GSM 1900 or GSM 850 you are in luck just investigate and you shall be granted wisdom.
Your other option is a burner. A burner is defined by every police program produced in North America as a cheap throwaway cell phone. The reason Panama has more cell phones than people is elementary dear Watson. All burners from all the world migrate to Panama after they are discarded, here they are befriended by kind, loving people who cannot yet afford a Blackberry. They can be acquired with a chip, usually with some free airtime one almost any street corner in the country for under $30.
Next the plan, or better in Panama no plan. If you are a tourist there are no plans, just float with the wind and use prepaid services. If you are a permanent resident and want to fit in with the masses, be like everyone else and be clueless and plan-less, use prepaid. For most people a postpay plan is more expensive, more work and more confusing then scratch and squint.
Warning: Cell service is the only thing you should ever prepay in Panama, otherwise you will discover yourself a real idiot.
Each cell company sells scratch and squint cards or you can recharge your phone at any ATM in the country through something described as a RED or network. Through the wonders of light speed technology, your cell phone never needs to leave your pocket. If you do this watch the pixels of the screen for what superfluous charges might be added for an alien debit card.
Once you buy the chip, usually a $1, charge it up with a ATM or card and you can enjoy smooth communications requiring only a babel fish in your ear and a thank you to Douglas Adams for the inspiration.
Posted by editor on March 2, 2010
It is Tuesday in Boquete Panama and I decided before embracing the day I would make the twenty minute migration to the Tuesday Morning Networking Meeting. I did not plan to attend the meeting, I am not even sure what it was about. I wanted visit the Farmers Market, get some organic produce and see some friends. I never made it.
One of the questions postured at the Live and Invest in Panama conference was, “What do you do with your time”. The generic response was “that is a question for all retirees”. I am not retired in any context beyond the Visa I carry in my pocket. My days are full and rich with new experiences. Today started no different.
On my way to the Tuesday Morning Meeting I was hijacked. I spotted Rosa from the Alto Jaramillo Water Junta sitting at the bus stop. I needed to pay my water bill for 2010 so stopped. My water bills in Arizona averaged $200 a month, here with our new higher rates, I paid Rosa $30 for the year. The base rate is $18 for a house with one bathroom, I have two bathrooms so I pay $12 more a year. As a member of the water junta myself , I helped write the new regulations and as a member of the Junta, I allowed myself to be hijacked.
Four members of the Junta including myself and another non member resident, Carlos drove to David. We went to MINSA, the Department of Health. We went to see why after many promises no work has been done on the new Jaramillo Aqueduct. Work was supposed to start late last year, then again for sure in February, now we are told for sure in March. Part of the reality in Panama is the stagnation that so many gringos think is reserved for them, is just the way things are here, slow. We were promised another inspection team would be on site Friday and asked to be available, we will be.
We then marched to different office in the same rat maze of a building and inquired about the progress of the new regulations, at least the first step for the new regulations. They were passed in a January meeting of the community, but before they can be applied the old regulations must be repealed. We, the Junta, signed a letter, had the MINSA people in Boquete, bless it with signatures and probably a rubber stamp or two and send it to David. Rosa was wise enough to followup. We first discovered they never received the letter, then they did but lost it, then they found it. Now my next Tuesday is planned, drive to David and present the new regulations to MINSA. For some reason known only in the bowels of the bureaucracy here, they could not be sent together. To insure they are actually received and rubber stamped before they are lost we will hand deliver them.
8 AM became time for a fast lunch in David and then the acquisition of a file cabinet and folders to add to the inefficiency of the Junta by piling all historical documents in one place so the humidity can rot them in unison. By 3 pm I am home, collecting eggs from the chickens, feeding the chickens, checking the horses and now reflecting on my day. I am glad to be back where it is cool, calm and I am lost in a neblina (fog) encompassing my farm in the hills.
What do I do with my days in Panama, every day is a new adventure. Every day I learn more Spanish, everyday I learn more culture, everyday I rejoice in the mental adventure.
Posted by editor on March 1, 2010
Posted by editor on February 28, 2010
Much of my last week was spent in the Capital, Panama City. I was invited to a conference entitled, Live and Invest in Panama. The conference was three days long and had more paid attendees then the last conference I attended. My role was to be on a round table of expat residents in the country. People mostly from the US and Canada seeking more information about a possible move or investment in Panama. In speaking to several people I discovered that they, for various reasons, are ready for a change. I planned to voice the reality of living here, not a fantasy. After talking to people and listening to why they want to change their lives, I am once again sold on how lucky those of us who live here are.
The conference was very well done and if the sponsors, Live and Invest Overseas, do it again it recommend it to anyone considering a move. There were presentations about the law, real estate, visa options, banking, insurance, health care and more. Literally anything you might want to know before making a move, including the very real warning Panama is not for everyone.
One notable presenter was Rainalda Mata-Kelly a well respected lawyer who has spoken multiple times in Boquete. She announced that the very day of the presentation, 24 Feb, the immigration ministry made an important change. Because they are still choking on the number of applications for visas they have changed the temporary interim card for Pensionado visas in the queue from 90 days to one year. This means if you have a Pensionado visa pending, the next time you go to immigration for a temporary visa it will issued be for one year, not 90 days.
In addition Rainalda discussed property taxes, with a reminder that there is a window until the end of June 2010 to have your property reappraised, raise the value and reduce the tax rate to 1% permanently. The current rate for land and non exempt improvements varies from zero for the first $30,000 up to 2.1%. This voluntary reappraisal will lock the rate at 1%; I am in the middle of this process now.
My new appraisal was done last week by Luis Caballero, of CETSA in David ( If you want contact info email me). The cost of appraisal was $200 plus tax. I picked it up today and handed it off to my lawyer. I am not sure how they can do valuations here, there are no comps from past sales. Still due to some amazing reality of Panama and it’s continued growth the appraised value of my land increased 25% in three and a half years. Even with that increase in appraised value I will see a reduction in my land taxes. My house value more than doubled but after investing in improvements that was not a surprise, but due to the exemption on the taxes for improvements that increase in value does no damage to my tax bill. This is a win, win if you have dirt currently valued at more than $30,000.00.
Scotia Bank was at the conference and to my surprise they told me they will lend money to Pensionados for new house purchases and even home equity loans.
One more exciting thing, good or bad is that the government is going to spend about $800,000,000 dollars on improvements in the interior of the country. This list includes making the airport in David 737 friendly for COPA and others, a possible echo of the Liberia airport in Costa Rica. When the Liberia airport was built the entire region exploded economically.
In addition I heard talk of the four lane expansion from David to Boquete and worse, talk of a road from Boquete to someplace in Bocas del Toro. Worse because if they create such a road it might be an environmental disaster as well as an annual washout. It will also encourage more people to visit Boquete, encourage more people to move to Boquete and turn Boquete in the dreaded Aspen of Panama, we have everything but the snow already.
Posted by editor on February 25, 2010
After returning from Isla Colon, Myra and I decided we would have a light dinner and then go dancing. I had a pizza jones, something acquired from years of eating too much pizza around this planet. You could call it an addiction requiring a resolution, addictive behavior. I have eaten pizza in most locations in Boquete that take a crust, add sauce and toppings. I have seen hand tossed crusts, frozen crusts and even Riccos patented crust. I like some, tolerate others and still seek something similar to Bocces on Baily in Buffalo New York, the best of my pizza memories.
We decided to try the Gaucho Pizza Palace that opened a few months ago. People had given me mixed reviews on the pizza, the service and several had told me about problems with the jubilado discount. No matter, I needed a fix, I went without my camera, I had no intention of writing about the experience. I did have my iphone and as the evening unfolded I decided to write and did take some photos.
When we arrived on Sunday night, the place was packed, we took the only empty table. Service started fast, we had menus immediately and Myra ordered a salad, I selected a small pizza. While we were ordering I noticed a gentleman at an adjoining table receive his dinner while three others with him did not. After a while he started eating, after he was finished, a pizza showed up for the other three people. Not a good signal. I decided to walk about a bit, this restaurant has a small room with a few slot machines, it has a hotel downstairs, has a table outside and an ice cream bar. It is a nicely appointed operation.
The pizzas are hand rolled dough with a little tossing to help the theater. The pizza oven is a conveyor belt electric oven, not something I ever saw in Buenos Aires. 
Try to my worst expectation Myras $7 mini salad came, not the pizza. 
I also said please eat your dinner. Myra’s Salad was eaten and I was about to ask for my check when my miniature pizza arrived.
Six inches diameter, for $5.90, Computing the cost per square inch of a pizza is a simple formula PIE R SQUARED, 3.14 x 9 = 28 sq inches of pizza or $.21 per square inch, pricy pizza. Popeyes in David which has good , wood oven pizza does a small, 12“ pizza for $6, or 113 square inches at $.05 per Square inch. The pizza was not very good pizza either, but it was late, I was hungry and I ate it.
I then asked for our check with a jubilado discount. I rarely ask for the discount, but since people had told me they had been denied the discount I thought I would poke the bull. The check arrived with a 15% discount, I explained the waitress the discount should be 25%. After a while she reappeared and explained they were a new restaurant and only need to give 15%. I cannot find that clause in the law so if someone else can please add it to a comment.
The manager also came out and explained the same story. I paid the bill, they actually did not even do the 15% discount, they charged full price. At least in this case the stories are true.
Bad service, mediocre overpriced food and attitude combined will keep me from reappearing in the home of pseudo gaucho pizza in Boquete.
Posted by editor on February 23, 2010
With a complete day to spend exploring Isla Colon Dan, Deborah, Myra and I set out walking. We decided by happenstance we followed the perimeter road that hugs the coast in the direction of the Bocas Airport.. The Airport on Isla Colon is walking distance from most hotels on the island and is open again.
Our first encounter was with a new 36 unit building that was listed as townhouses on the ANAM impact sign. As we looked we were greeted by Hans, the owner of the project. Hans discussed his project, the opportunities on Isla Colon and other islands and mentioned the market for hotel rooms was strong, while now, the market for land was weak. The message, according to Hans this is good time to buy land in Bocas del Toro. There is a new, controversial law someplace in process that will affect property rights of ROP owners. Hans thinks it will be a good thing, I have heard others say the opposite, so I would do my research before opening a check book.
After bidding goodbye to Hans we found our first public beach and as it was approaching noon and hot our first cold beer of the day. The first beach is just after you pass through an arch marking the beginning of the Isla Colon fairgrounds. In 2008 I went to the fair, this time we just found some shade,some chairs and cold drinks. The restaurant has a full menu at local prices and beer was $0.75 a bottle. From the beach I saw a large building across the bay and I was told it was the Playa Tortuga Resort. A quick use of my Iphone found their website and thier listing on Trip advisor. $347 a night seemed out of sight for Bocas but worth exploring so we decided to walk there.
On the road we encountered the National Police Station for the fair and more important the only restaurant I ever really enjoyed on Isla Colon, the Caribbean Burger truck, home of GREAT friend chicken. This truck, flat tires and all was parked at the park in town for several years dishing out great food after sundown. The new mayor decreed it gone and we found the relic. It is probably used at the fair inSeptember.
We hugged the coast, Myra hugged Dan and eventually we made it to La Tortuga. It was far less impressive than either the website or the image from across the bay.
But it did have a nice bar, a great view, good service and cold beer. The bonus is that when you spend $347 a night for a hotel room you can buy cold beer at 5:1, that is five time the price at a local bar.
After leaving the La Tortuga Bar we started the walk back and were saved by a taxi. Seeking lunch the taxi drivers first directed tus o a local hangout in the fairground and then a chicken with rice place near the airport. An abbreviated version of the Culturas / Amigos lunch; Chicken, rice with lentils and a salad, pasta salad was $4.
With the heat of the day came a siesta, followed by my determination to followup on the comment of a taxi driver that Caribbean Burgers had a store front on the far side of the park. We found it, it was closed.
Caribbean Burgers was located accross from a bar called Toro Loco, a gringo bar that seemed to have a lot of local gringos as clients, the Culturas of Isla Colon They had a bar food menu, cold beer and they became our first stop of the evening. Service was good, the menu had clearly marked food prices and no listing of drink prices. When the bill came it was verbal and we have no idea what drinks cost but the total was realistic and we decided to find dinner.
For this second night we decided to try something more touisty for the experience, We started and planned to end at the new rather glamorous Bocas Bambu. The place was crowded but we were given a table immediately, given menus immediately and then ignored. The waitress, we think there was one, came an went. She took orders from around us, brought drinks to others and ignored us completely. If I had not showered shortly before I would have believed it was offending odor. In time after feeling socially inadequate we left. The man who seated us was very concerned but not enough to do anything about the problem.
Next the new restaurant at the Laguna Hotel, Cocina Exotica. Nice menu, we seated ourselves, a waiter brought over menus immediately and once again we were ignored for a long period of time. As 9 pm approaced we resigned ourselves to my initial lust for Caribbean Chick, if they were opened and left. In a note of irony the same waiter who had ignored us was at the table in seconds collecting our well perused menus.
Sadly, for me, Caribbean Bugers was still closed so we returned to Toro Loco for a late dinner of friend this and that. I was told Caribbean burgers usually opened by midnight and stayed open to about 5 am, go figure. I did try to return at 1 am for my grease fix but was denied egress from my room by Myra, I will need to wait for another time for artery clogging fried chicken.
Our return the next day was a four hour replay of the ride to Almirante with the exception of Myra doing some banana negotiations along the way.
We ended up with two large stalks of banana, guineos criollio (local non chicquita brand bananas) and the small thumb sized bananas that ripen very sweet. You do not find these little bananas int he stores here but you find different, new and often exciting expereinces along the roads throughout Panama.
Posted by editor on February 22, 2010
Last night, February 21 there was an armed robbery of the residence of Roy Knight in Volcancito. At least three, maybe more, thieves entered at about 10 pm through an open door.
Roy, Tony and Tony’s wife were taped and immobilized. The men were beaten and household goods taken. The thieves left by taking Roy’s pickup. I do not have any more detiails at this time, perhaps others can add them.
This robbery has similar attributes to one on Jaramillo several months ago and the El Dorado robbery, shortly after.
Please keep your doors and windows closed, don’t make it easy to become a victim.
Update: 9:50 AM The Police found Roy’s truck in the area near the airport in David, again an echo from a previous robbery in Jaramillo.
Posted by editor on February 20, 2010
School in Panama begins on March 9th, My friend Myra is a Professora, a teacher and her vacation is coming to its end. We decided to do a fast trip from Boquete Panama to Bocas del Toro, to Isla Colon, the most populated of the islands commonly called Bocas del Toro. We were joined by some other friends, Dan and Deborah, escapees from Valle Escondido.
We drove and briefly said they are continuing to repair the road between Gulaca and Chiriqui Grande, several new bridges are going into span the washed out road bed. When done it will be a vast improvement, for now the construction coupled with the dense fog that we encountered makes the ride slow and perilous. With flights having resumed from David direct to Isla Colon I would really recommend flying. 
After parking the car we headed for the BMT, Bocas Marine Transport and took a water taxi to the island. I noticed a rather dramatic change, radios in the boats, new tops and enforced mandatory use of life jackets.
Myra and I stayed at the Hotelito del Mar, dead center in town. I have been there before and nothing has changed. If is perfectly located if you want to be in the center of what has become tourist town Bocas del Toro.The Hotelito was full so Dan and Deborah ended up about 10 minute walk out of town at the Angela Hotel. If I were to rate the Hotelito del Mar a 6/10 the Hotel Angela might make it to 4/10. Their room included three beds with a shower in the same room, non functional AC. Despite to offer of a free breakfast posted in the room, they discovered the hard way there was no such thing as a free breakfast in the Hotel Angela.
After settling in, we started a Bocas pub crawl in pursuit in eventual pursuit of dinner. We started at the Buena Vista for some happy hours Pina Coladas, they were very nice at $2.50 except they appeared to be missing the rum. After a round and some fried calamari we moved down to the Reef at the other end of the street. Rum was $1.50, six chicken wings for $6. The wings were really six, half wings. I requested the check and noticed the rum was billed at $2 each. this brought back a memory, they did this last time I was there also, that time for food. I need urge caution if you value your wallet t the Reef.
My reason for this line of commentary is the sum up that Isla Colon has become a tourist trap; unless you know where to go.
Deborah suggested heading off the beaten path and with a phone call to my friend Helena from Garden of Eden we were directed past the Reef, around the bend to the Ultimo Refugio. We actually missed the entrance until a man on the street asked if we were looking for the restaurant.
The wait was long but discovering the new drinks being offered at bar folded time and eventually a table cleared. The inside was charming, busy and fun. There were no tables but we were offered bar, drinks and the next opening. The white board menu was short and the theme fresh and fish.
Dinner was served well and in a reasonable time. Dinner was very good, the venue and service excellent and in all the experience great.
On Isla Colon head of the tourist path. More of that tomorrow in a day of walking, exploring and searching for another dinner worth eating.
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